Silas Rossi and I just returned from the Ruth Gorge where we established two new climbs on Mount Bradley 9,104’. The first, completed on April 17th, was a 49 hour (camp to camp) effort that resulted in “The Sum of Its Parts,” Alaska Grade V, AI6, M7, A2. The route climbs 4,000’ to the summit on Bradley’s southern aspect via an obvious large cleft just right of “The Gift” (Blitz-House-Twight, 1998). Our line begins on a steep ice and mixed ramp that leads into a beautiful mixed corner that is capped by a roof at ~800.’ Mixed climbing to M7, and some creative aid out the roof allowed us to gain the major chimney system that continues the full height of the wall. The climb meets the west ridge just 300 vertical feet below the summit. After leaving camp at 4:00 AM on April 15th, we topped out Bradley at 9:00 PM on the 16th with the sun low on the horizon and promptly began our descent via the Bradley/Wake Col. The descent lasted through the night and deposited us back as base camp at 5:00 AM on the 17^th.  A faulty stove added to the appeal of an immediate return to basecamp.

The quality of the climbing was exceptional and offered many varied challenges.  Because of the nature of the cleft we followed, however, route finding was not one of these challenges.  “The Sum Of Its Parts” was climbed in 28 pitches, to a brilliant rope-stretching finish, we dubbed “The Mind Shaft” due to its straight-forward appearance but mentally jarring exit. One of the climb’s defining sections included climbing the left wall of a wild chimney for 500’ that went at AI6 (AI5+ R).  These pitches involved past-vertical “snice,” nearly show stopping anchoring, and a fair number of exclamations by both of us on lead. It was one of the most amazing single features we encountered on the trip.

Ample rest, a fresh foot of snow, and casual ski touring days affirmed our intentions on an impossible-to-miss line of ice that we’d stared at from camp since our arrival. On April 25^th, we clicked into our skis at 2:00 AM to approach the striking line with a sizeable rack and plans to beat the early morning sun on the lower portion of this independent line located on the north side of Bradley’s East Ridge. Our second route, “Heavy Mettle,” Alaska Grade V, WI5+R, M6, A0, 4600’ begins by ascending the major couloir through short bands of rock (M6), between the prominent East Ridge and “Welcome to Alaska” (Charon-Faure-Moulin-Ponson, 2002).

From high in the couloir we traversed left into a large corner system just below half height on the wall. Our route follows this corner for 1800’ of “snice” and water ice spackled into the back of the corner to eventually meet the East Ridge at ~8300’, (800’ below Bradley’s summit). Upon meeting the east ridge we continued up and over the summit by what we felt was the path of least resistance. This included one rappel to cross a gap in the ridge and avoid large cornices.

We climbed “Heavy Mettle,” basecamp to basecamp (below Mt. Dickey) in 43.5 hours with a 3 hour “rest stop” between the hours of 4:00 and 7:00 AM on the 26^th. We summited at 1:00 PM and again descended the ridgeline, west, down through the Bradley/Wake Col, below the south face and eventually back up the Ruth Gorge to camp. We returned to camp at 9:30 pm. The final eight hours of post-holing reaffirmed our belief that skiing is a far superior method of travel no matter how rewarding the line of post holes looks over your shoulder.

“The Sum Of Its Parts” and “Heavy Mettle’’ are excellent and sustained in their quality. An incredible stretch of good weather and a deep desire to make the most of our first trip to the Ruth Gorge contributed to great outcomes.  Silas and I are extremely grateful for the support of a 2012 Polartec Challenge Grant, and the sponsorship of Sterling Ropes, Outdoor Research, Brooks-Range Mountaineering, and Snap MyLife.  We thank everyone for the generous backing.  Also, we’d like to thank friends in the climbing community for sharing their experience, photos, and other helpful information.  This trip would not have been possible without everyone’s contributions.

For more information regarding Peter Doucette visit mountainsenseguides.com and for more information regarding Silas Rossi visit alpine-logic.com.

…It is a 10 mi. hike into the Cirque of The Towers where you can settle in with the high mountain lakes and wildflowers surrounded by beautiful towering granite peaks!  The climbing is exhilarating and fun, with a variety of different climbing objectives for all levels.  We will hire a porter to help carry in gear and spend 4 nights playing and climbing…Read More August 11-15, 2012

Climbing & Yoga in Red Rocks, Nevada

…We will spend 3 days camping in the beautiful desert landscape of Red Rocks Canyon climbing and doing yoga (optional) daily. Uniting yoga and rock climbing in this serene setting is an adventure not to be missed…Read More October 19-21, 2012

Please call our office (307-733-2297) if you would like more information regarding either of these trips.

I didn’t just want to climb the Grand, though — I wanted to ski down it too.”

On March 7th, Exum Guides Dan Corn, Anneka Door and Brenton Reagan were presented with the Citizen’s Award for Bravery by Secretary of the Interior, Ken Salazar. The three guides joined Grand Teton National Park Rangers, and three others in Washington DC to receive the award for their efforts in the 2010 rescue of 17 climbers on the Grand Teton.

See the dramatic full account of the rescue in Jackson Hole Magazine, and read the Grand Teton National Park News Release for more information.

We are very proud of Anneka, Brenton and Dan, and of our partnership with Grand Teton National Park.

During the most recent Exum Mountain Guides/Alpine House Backcountry Ski Week, a few of us decided to take on the Apocalypse Couloir in Death Canyon. Armed with some great skiers, 2 ropes, an ice screw, a little rock gear and our ski guiding skills, the 5 of us were on our way. The day started off under beautiful blue skies. As we skinned our way to the top, the weather started to change and became more fitting to the name of our descent. Wind, cold temps, and some snow only added to the excitement.

The descent included rappelling, steep skiing, and even some skiing on belay. The Apocalypse Couloir is one of the most sought after ski descents in the Tetons. Words can’t describe it. Since we happened to have one of Jackson’s best photographers, David Stubbs along, we decided to simply present it with photos.

As you can see, this descent is for experienced skiers. Our guides however, can find an adventure for skiers of all abilities and we can help you work your way up to a descent like the Apocalypse Couloir.

Enjoy the photos!

Other reasons to plan a trip:

CNNGo.com thinks its a great idea – The Grand Teton was recently featured by CNNGo as one of “10 Mountains For Every Kind of Climber”. The article states “…Exum sets the standard, having guided the peak for over 80 years” — The Grand Teton is known as a classic North American climb, however whether you choose to take on the Grand, or a family day at the practice rocks, we will assure an unforgettable experience.

Our previous clients recommend it – We recently reviewed our client evaluations from the summer and came up with our Top Three activities, based on client comments. Our clients tell it like it is so take a look at the Top Three and see if the comments don’t provide a little incentive to book a trip to Jackson.

The Exum Experience! – Fun climbing activities, classic climbs, stunning scenery, as much challenge as you want to take on, great guides, and an even an occasional bear or moose. Come join us this summer!

On January 12, 2012 I had the opportunity to guide a very talented climber and skier. Peter has been an Exum client for many years, but had never skied deep in the Teton backcountry. Six inches of snow fell on the day before we planned to go out, and the forecast called for sun and very cold temperatures – seemed like a good recipe for a ski tour into Garnet Canyon, the true heart of the Tetons.

We left Jackson in the dark. We were headed for the Bradley-Taggart Lakes trailhead, the last possible place to park before the Grand Teton National Park winter road closure. The long winter approaches tend to keep most people away, so the few who are motivated, experience a winter wonderland in its most peaceful state.

We started skinning up along the Taggart Lake moraine as the rosy glow of sunrise appeared along the eastern horizon. Temperatures dipped below -15, but that did not curb our enthusiasm, as the fresh crystalline snow sparkled and the Grand Teton, Middle Teton, Nez Perce, Owen, and Teewinot towered above us in grandeur.

Dropping down into Bradley lake Basin briefly, we watched golden light strike across the big peaks, beckoning us to go further. Above us we could see the beautiful powder snow that was to be our delight in the not too distant future.

Ascending, we weaved our way through bedrock benches and snow covered fir and pine forests. The surrounding boulders were covered in pillows of powder, which provided a treat to the eye as we made our way into Garnet Canyon. Disappointment Peak’s fine gneiss ridges and varied aretes began to dominate our skyline, and warmed the interior of the canyon with solar energy.

Just below the ‘Platforms’ bench, and sheltered from ridge top and canyon winds that were beginning to pick up, we stopped for an early lunch in the sun. Turkey sandwiches, salty potato chips and chocolate… you can never go wrong!

After our short break we continued into the meadows where the Middle Teton towers above you and there is little winter sunshine. The wind was whipping around us with fervor, and the ridge tops were a sea of spindrift mixed with sunlight. Despite the fact that we were continually fighting to protect our faces from the frigid temperatures, turning back wasn’t an option we wanted to entertain. We made a quick decision to go up the north fork of Garnet Canyon where there was more shelter from the wind, and better snow.

Zigzagging the skin track up through the steep lower headwall of the north fork, Peter dialed in his kick turns, and I monitored the snowpack continually for any instability.  About an hour later we arrived in the morainal basin just below the upper headwall to the Lower Saddle between the Grand and Middle Tetons. The wind was bitterly cold and blowing consistently with gusts up to 60 mph. As we stood there, at about 11,000 ft., we decided it was time to go down to avoid any further wind loading on the slopes below.

Before our descent we took in the sights of the magnificent basin, while the valley floor sat small and distant nearly 7 miles away. What a treat to be up here on this day, and how amazing that we can actually travel through weather and altitude in such an extreme environment, while thoroughly enjoying ourselves. It felt like a gift to be among the high thrones of the Tetons, and now we were going to ski down beautiful faces of powder snow. Life is good!

We clicked into our bindings, tightened our boots, and started descending our nearly 5000 vertical feet of skiing. First, down the headwall with cold smoke flying in our faces the entire way. Then, down through the ‘Meadows’ and gigantic snow covered boulders. As we reached tree line we hugged the north side of the canyon to take advantage of some of the best snow of the day along the flanks of Nez Perce, and finally we skied the lower benches of perfect powder that fed us onto the frozen shores of Bradley Lake. As I watched Peter ski down our final 800 vertical feet, I couldn’t help but feel a deep satisfaction. A hard day’s work, earned a great day’s skiing. Even more than that however, it was the peace and quiet, and the intrinsic beauty that was ours to enjoy for the day.

As we skinned out the final pitch toward Taggart Lake, the sunshine hit our faces, and we looked back towards Garnet Canyon. Perhaps it is a connection that cannot be described, but in our faces we saw satisfaction on a deeper level, a wildly deep connection to a place and an experience that will always be with us.

——

Jessica would be thrilled to ski with you too, so call our office today (307-733-2297) and schedule your backcountry adventure!

Angela is one of few Americans, and only the sixth American woman, to have passed the AMGA rock, alpine and ski mountaineering guide exams to become IFMGA/UIAGM licensed internationally as a Mountain Guide. She is one of the most experienced women guides and instructors in the U.S. with over twenty years of experience.

Over the past two decades Angela has climbed, skied and guided throughout the U.S., Alaska, Canada, the Andes, Himalaya, and Karakorum. She has climbed big walls in Yosemite, Zion and Pakistan, ski traversed Lapland, reached the South Summit of Mt. Everest (28,875ft) and guided five Denali expeditions. She has guided four of the Seven Summits: Mt. Everest, Denali, Carstensz Pyramid and Aconcagua, and led an all women’s ascent of Ama Dablam. In 2001, she earned an MA in International Mountain Conservation.

Angela also guides for Women that Rock, Chicks with Picks, Chicks on Cracks, Splitter Camps, Aerial Boundaries and Moab Desert Adventures. She is an instructor for the AMGA and served on the AMGA’s board of directors for six years. Angela is a Denali Pro Pin recipient for a rescue she carried out on while guiding on Denali.

We are proud of Angela’s many accomplishments and honored that she is an Exum Senior Guide.

Coming soon! The Marmot/Exum Mountain Guides 80th Anniversary Fall Media Tour! Learn about the rich heritage of North American Mountain Guiding as we follow Exum’s deep history and look ahead to the future. Featuring a comprehensive slideshow, video presentation and of course a Marmot raffle, it should be a great time. Climbing, Powder Skiing, Ski Mountaineering and some of the most amazing photos of the Tetons you will ever see. Contact your retailer for show times. All your questions about the Tetons will be answered.

If you have climbed with Exum before come share your stories about the climbs and the guides you spent time with.

	A climber nearing the top of the First Flatiron, a beautiful and long, classic climb that reaches the summit.  From the top there are wonderful views of Boulder to the East and the high mountains to the West.  The climb is ten pitches of 5.6 climbing and its a great day on the rock.
	Exum Senior guide Tom Sciolino, leading the final pitch of the Wind Ridge.  A three pitch Eldorado classic at 5.6 that climbs high above the canyon floor.  It offers a wide variety of climbing and great views of the canyon from the summit.
	The most popular climb in Colorado, The Bastille Crack, 5.7, is located in Eldorado Canyon State Park.  Five great pitches of crack climbing will get you high above the canyon floor and to the top of the Bastille.  There you will have great views of the city of Boulder as well as the entire canyon.  It is not to be missed.

For more information about climbing in Eldorado State Park and The Flatirons, please see our Boulder page or call our Boulder office at 307-730-1185.