Middle Teton

North Face of the Middle Teton in spring conditions. Photo credit: Exum Guide Tom TurianoThe Middle Teton (12,804) offers a variety of climbs, from scrambles and early season snow climbs to ice routes and rock climbs. Access is either from a camp in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon or from the Exum Hut, located on the saddle between the Grand Teton and Middle Teton.

Exum often climbs the South West Couloir either as an early season snow climb or a late season scramble. It is possible to do it in one long day form the valley, but most parties will want to take two days.

The North Buttress is a short moderate rock climb directly above the Exum Hut.

The Glacier Route and the Northwest Couloir are both moderate ice climbs, good places to practice ice climbing in the mountains if you have grown too accustomed to short pitches on frozen waterfalls.

The summit of the Middle Teton is an excellent place from which to study the routes on the south side of the Grand Teton. The standard descent to the Lower Saddle usually involves several rappels.
Price:
One-Day
$425 for one

$350 each for two
$275 each for three
 
Two-Day (Southwest Couloir) Two-Day (moderate-high difficulty)
$995 for one $1,050-$1,175 for one
$795 each for two $825-$950 each for two
$675 each for three

group rates may be available - please call the office for more information
Availability:
June through September in most years.  Other times when conditions allow.
Prerequisites:
Previous climbing with Exum or Guide approval for moderate and difficult routes.

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