The Classic Grand Teton Climb

Climber on the Exum Ridge  Photo: Exum Guide Andy Bardon
Exum's group climbs are the classic way of climbing the Grand Teton. Your group will consist of climbers who have all passed our prerequisite classes for the Grand Teton, and we will put together the best-matched teams possible. Group climbs rely on participation and teamwork during your ascent, and the result is a heightened sense of accomplishment and an unforgettable bond with your fellow climbers.
 
The seven-mile, 5,000-foot approach to the Exum Hut, on the saddle between the Middle and Grand Teton, climbs steeply through hillsides blanketed in wildflowers and past gorgeous waterfalls.
 
Our hut is stocked with sleeping bags, pads, climbing gear, and cooking equipment. After a simple dinner we will enjoy the sunset across Idaho and then go to bed early.  We rise at 3 a.m., wolf down some breakfast and warm drinks, and begin our ascent--in the dark. Looming above is the Grand Teton.
 
Which route we follow will depend on the weather and the speed of the group--either the historic Owen-Spalding, by which the mountain was first climbed, or the acclaimed Exum Ridge. Plan to reach the summit by mid-morning. After enjoying a snack and the extraordinary views of three states--Wyoming, Idaho, and Montana--we rappel and down-climb for several hours to the Exum Hut. We enjoy a brief lunch, then pack up and begin the long descent to the valley. Groups usually arrive at the trailhead in time for dinner.
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Price:
The Classic Grand Teton four-day Package - includes Multi-Pitch Level I, Level II and the Classic two-day group Grand Teton climb. In early season, it may be necessary to add a day of snow instruction to your plans (the package price will increase by $170 per person when this is necessary). We will match you with other climbers of similar ability in order to keep the cost as low as possible.

$1070 for one climber (only applies if we are unable to group you with other climbers)
$915 each if there are two climbers per guide
$875 each if there are three climbers per guide
$820 each if there are four climbers per guide


Prices for just the Classic Grand Teton two-day climb (Multi-Pitch Level I and Level II are required, along with Snow School in early season):
 
$750 for one climber (only applies if we are unable to group you with other climbers)
$595 each if there are two climbers per guide
$555 each if there are three climbers per guide
$500 each if there are four climbers per guide

 

Availability:
June 10 - September 10, seven days a week
Prerequisites:
Multi-Pitch Level I
Multi-Pitch Level II
Snow School may be required for early summer climbs (prior to July 15)

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After completing the prerequisite classes, you will meet your guide(s) on the first morning of the Grand Teton climb at Exum's office in Lupine Meadows. You'll check your gear, settle up with the office, and then drive to the Lupine Meadows trailhead. (Please be prepared with your own transportation as Exum guides are unable to transport clients in their personal vehicles.) Carrying only your personal food and clothing, you will spend the day hiking up Garnet Canyon to our private hut at the Lower Saddle (11,620 feet). Though the hike is long and at times strenuous, guides set a slow and steady pace so you may enjoy the exercise and the fabulous alpine scenery. Arrive at the hut in late afternoon. 

You and your guide(s) will leave the hut before dawn for the Exum Ridge, the Owen-Spalding Route or the Enclosure. The Owen-Spalding is an easier route whose guidebook description reveals little about how thrilling it really is. There is as much exposure, if not more, on the first two pitches of the Owen-Spalding as on many routes of a much harder grade. The Owen-Spalding Route is the line of the peak's first ascent and holds many classic passages with sensational exposure like the Belly Roll, the Crawl and the Catwalk.

The Exum Ridge is reached via Wall Street, an exciting exposed ramp. The 13-pitch route then follows a pinnacled crest line up the Golden Staircase, Wind Tunnel, Double Cracks, Friction Pitch, Unsoeld's Layback, and onto the summit ridge. Some of the most high quality and aesthetic rock in the range forms the Exum Ridge, undeniably one of the most spectacular routes of its grade anywhere in the world.

Typically parties reach the summit by late morning. You then begin the descent, rappelling and downclimbing back to the Exum Hut for lunch and to collect gear.

After recharging you will begin the hike down Garnet Canyon, back to the Lupine Meadows trailhead. Most parties return to Exum's headquarters by early evening.

The Enclosure, the Grand Teton's western summit, is a good alternate should bad weather, poor route conditions, or your personal well-being impede a summit attempt of the Grand Teton. Conditions in the mountains are unpredictable and the Enclosure serves as a great alternative.

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