Exum Senior Guide/Exum Technical Supervisor
Hometown: Lander, Wyoming
Guiding since 1970
Languages: Spanish and Russian
Extensive climbs in Canada and U.S., including five routes on El Capitan and many ascents in the southwest. Expeditions and guiding in Peru, Ecuador, Argentina, and Mount Rainier. Expeditions to Uzbekistan, Aksu and Asan-Usan valleys in Kyrgyzstan. First ascent of northwest ridge of Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan. Only American to summit Gasherbrum IV. Expeditions to Everest and Gasherbrum II. Guided Pik Communism, Pik Lenin, Pik Korzhenevskaya, and Khan Tengri (Kyrgystan). One-day ascents Aconcagua and Pik Korzhenevskaya. Five seasons guiding and teaching up to Grade VI ice and mixed climbing in New Hampshire. Recipient of AMGA Lifetime Achievement in Guiding Award in 2004. AMGA instructor and examiner in Rock and Alpine disciplines.