Grand Teton in One Day
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One of the greatest aspects of Teton mountaineering is relatively quick access to high alpine mountains. Granted, no access is easier than the aerial trams of the European Alps, but climbing routes are so crowded there that parties often have to stand in line to begin the more popular routes. While the Grand Teton is a popular climb, it will never draw the sheer numbers found in the tram-accessed Alps.

A one-day climb of the Grand Teton is an invigorating accomplishment for hikers and climbers in excellent physical condition. Few one-day activities in life are as rewarding as this round-trip tour from the forested moraines of Jackson Hole to the Grand Teton's world of vibrant granite walls and spires.

We begin the approach hike with headlamps from Lupine Meadow trailhead between 2:00am and 6:00am depending on group fitness, experience, and current weather forecast. Dawn sees us hiking across sparsely-forested sub-alpine slopes. We traverse into Garnet Canyon and see the orange and pink alpenglow on the high peaks. Our packs hold only the necessities for a day-hike because all of the climbing gear is cached at our Lower Saddle hut. A wonderful feeling of freedom is borne from swift and efficient travel through mountainous terrain.

During mid-to-late morning, we begin our ascent from the Lower Saddle and ascend either the Owen-Spalding Route or the Exum Ridge depending on conditions and how we feel. After reaching the summit around noon, we rest for a half-hour, and begin our descent. A quick stop for water and lunch at the saddle leaves us ready for the hike back to the valley, where we arrive between 4:00 and 8:00pm.

Stats:

• Distance is 11 miles one way, 8 of which is on a trail (sometimes quite steep).
• Vertical gain is 5,000 feet to the Lower Saddle and another 2,100 feet to the summit: 7,100 feet total.
• Depending on the time of year, between four and six creeks are crossed en route allowing us to hydrate and carry little water.
• A 1:1 guide:client ratio is recommended, but a 1:2 ratio is acceptable in some instances.
• Those who attempt the Grand Teton in one day should have already experienced several 20-mile one-day hikes.