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Grand Teton Difficult Routes
Year-round
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- Complete Exum Ridge A classic American climb, this difficult buttress joins the Exum Route at Wall Street. Six superb pitches finish with steep and exposed climbing on the Black Face. Continue to the summit following the Exum Route. Difficulty: 5.7 to 5.8.
- Petzoldt Ridge This elegant arete adjacent the Exum Ridge involves steep pitches on beautiful knobby granite. Continue to the summit following the Exum Route or the Ford Couloir.
- Southwest Ridge Complexity and improbable passages make this 11-pitch climb an exciting diversion from the more popular routes. Difficulty: 5.7.
Please see our current rates for the above three climbs.
- North Ridge Eight pitches of superb climbing lead to high adventure for the expert on the remote northern prow of the Grand Teton. Difficulty: 5.8.
- West Face Begin either in the Black Ice Couloir or in a series of ramps and chimneys and follow a circuitous line up this alpine wall. Several pitches of steep cracks lead to a classic improbable face near the top. Difficulty: 5.8.
- North Face One of America's most awesome mountain walls, this classic contains several demanding variations. After surmounting the Teton Glacier, expect over 20 pitches of rock and snow climbing. Difficulty: 5.8 to 5.9 with steep snow and ice. Be sure to investigate our page devoted to spring and fall mixed alpine routes as well.
- Enclosure Couloir One of the Grand's famous ice couloirs, this 6-pitch ice route is approached via the
Valhalla Traverse. Finishing via the Northwest Ridge (see below) adds six more pitches of rock to make this combo an alpine classic. Difficulty: 5.7 with 60
 degree ice.
- Black Ice Couloir This world-famous ice furrow between the Grand Teton and the Enclosure is a very serious enterprise with about 15 pitches of steep ice and rock. Difficulty: 5.7 with 70 degree ice.
Please see our current rates for the above five climbs.
- East Ridge This giant 4,000 foot ridge faces Jackson Hole and is a magnificent alpine adventure. Difficulty: 5.7 with steep snow. Please see our current rates for this climb.
Northwest Ridge Most often, the upper pitches of this route are climbed after an ascent of the Enclosure Couloir (see above) approached from the Lower Saddle. However, the Northwest Ridge may be climbed in its entirety from the floor of Cascade Canyon for the longest ridge climb in the Teton Range. The ridge gains well over 6,000 feet in numerous pitches of steep rock and long sections of fun scrambling. This is a three-day ascent. Difficulty: V 5.7. Please see our current rates for this climb.
Summer Winter
Spring and Fall International
Exum Mountain Guides - Explore the Vertical
Lupine Meadows - Jenny Lake
Grand Teton National Park
Box 56, Moose, Wyoming 83012
307.733.2297 (phone) 307.733.9613 (fax)
*Exum Mountain Guides endorses Marmot gear,
widely known as the finest maker of outdoor gear in the industry.
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