Exum News Archive

Exum to offer Yoga Rocks Retreat   3/18/08
Exum Mountain Guides, in conjunction with Deep Yoga, is pleased to announce a new program for Summer 2008—Yoga Rocks. Under the instruction of Master Yoga Teachers Bhava and Sundari Ram (Laura Plumb) and Senior Guide Christian Santelices, you will experience the Yoga of Climbing in a spectacular mountain setting. This two-day program is set at the Rock Springs Backcountry Yurt at Teton Village and costs $495 per person. For more details, please visit deepyoga.com or call Exum at 307-733-2297.

DeFazio writes on his Grand ski with Exum  3/5/08
David DeFazio describes his ski descent of the Grand Teton with Exum guides Nat Patridge and Bill Liberatore on TheSnaz.com..."The Faz Goes Big."

Marmot features guides during Fitzroy expedition   2/27/08
Visit the Marmot web site to stay up-to-date on the progress of Exum guides Brenton Reagan and John Bragg as they attempt the northwest ridge of Fitzroy. It is Bragg's eighth expedition to Patagonia, and his third attempt to climb Fitzroy.

Client DeFazio successful on Grand Teton ski   2/24/08
On February 20 and 21, Exum client David DeFazio, with Exum guides Nat Patridge and Bill Liberatore, was successful in his third attempt to ski the Grand Teton. The Grand Teton usually is skiable only a handful of days during the winter months, and Patridge picked the day perfectly. It was the first time the Grand Teton has been ski guided during the winter season (Dec 22-Mar 21). After watching the lunar eclipse during their ascent, the trio skied powder on the east face and Ford Couloir, then rappeled the Chevy Couloir and lower portion of the Stettner Couloir, and then skied the Teepe Snowfield out Garnet Canyon.

Garibotti and Haley Complete Torre Traverse   2/11/08
In January 2008, Exum guide Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley completed the much-discussed—and occasionally attempted—Torre Traverse: the link-up of Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre in a single alpine-style outing. Garibotti also attempted the traverse in November 2007 with Exum guide Hans Johnstone, but the pair were turned back because of poor conditions.

Mahoney and Gilmore win grant for Khumbu expedition   1/16/08
Exum guide Kevin Mahoney was one of seven winners of the Mugs Stump Award for his proposal to climb the north face of 6,799-meter Kangtega in the Khumbu Valley of Nepal with partners Freddie Wilksonson and Exum guide Ben Gilmore. The recipients of the 2008 Mugs Stump Award were announced at the Ouray Ice Festival in mid-January. The awards, sponsored by Black Diamond Equipment, Climbing Magazine, Mountain Gear, Patagonia, PrimaLoft, and W.L. Gore, were created in 1992 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America’s most visionary climbers. The award annually grants $30,000 to small teams pursuing climbing objectives that exemplify light, fast, and clean alpinism.

Exum Reservations Announcement   12/12/07
Reservations are now being accepted for Summer 2008! Call the Exum Office at 307-733-2297 for details.

Nat'l Geographic Places Exum in Top 25   12/12/07
In its November 2007 issue, National Geographic Adventure Magazine printed its annual report on "innovative trips that will broaden your perspective, push your limits, and reignite your sense of possibility." They surveyed over 200 outfitters worldwide and scored them on the following criteria: education, sustainability, quality of service, and spirit of adventure. Exum Mountain Guides was selected among the top 25 outfitters for top-notch guiding on a classic mountaineering trip known as the Cathedral Traverese, which includes consecutive ascents of Teewinot, Mt Owen, and the Grand Teton.

Jack Turner wins 2007 Whiting Writers' Award   10/24/07
On October 24, Exum guide and corporate president Jack Turner was one of ten authors awarded the 2007 Whiting Writers' Award by the Mrs. Giles Whiting Foundation. The awards, which are now $50,000 each, totaling $500,000, have been given annually since 1985 to emerging writers of exceptional talent and promise. Turner, who is the author of several books, was recognized in the award for his 2001 memoir Teewinot: Climbing and Contemplating the Teton Range, which chronicles his reflections and adventures as a naturalist and mountain guide in the Teton Range.

Exum friend Pete Absolon killed in Wind Rivers   9/5/07
NOLS Rocky Mountain director Peter Absolon was killed August 11 while climbing a new route in the Leg Lake Cirque of the Wind River Range. In the senseless accident, he was struck by a rock trundled by hikers above. More details are available in an 8/29 Casper Star Tribune article.

Loomis guides 80-year-old Riggs on Grand Teton   9/4/07
Exum guide Molly Loomis successfully guided 80-year-old Bob Riggs of University Park, TX to the summit of the Grand Teton in August. Of the summit vista, Riggs said, "That view is an emotional experience. It does things to your inner self."

Mark Newcomb featured on Marmot poster   8/5/07
For the upcoming Outdoor Retailer trade show in Salt Lake City, Marmot has made three nine-foot tall display posters, one of which touts their product line with Exum guide Mark Newcomb coiling a rope high in the Tetons. The other two posters display their commitment to people and environment worldwide.

Loomis to instruct Pakistani Women's Climbing Camp   6/18/07
This July, Exum guide Molly Loomis will join six other American women mountain guides to teach 100 Pakistani women the basics of climbing and glacier travel, and guide them on an attempt of 19,619-foot Kusheikh Peak. The camp is a joint initiative of the American Alpine Club (AAC) and the Alpine Club of Pakistan. Donations are needed to cover travel costs to Pakistan.

New routes on the North Face in winter!   3/30/07
In January and February this winter, Exum guides Stephen Koch, Hans Johnstone, and Brian Harder established a new route on the North Face of the Grand Teton dubbed "Squeeze Box." The steep mixed rock and ice route is located between Shea's Chute and Alex Lowe Memorial Route. Read Stephen Koch's account of this impressive feat.

Hawse to keynote at Chicago Federal Reserve Conference   3/20/07
The Chicago Fed has asked Exum guide Angela Hawse back again to present the keynote speech in Chicago, kicking off their week long Leadership Conference on April 23, 2007. Hawse will use video and still footage from expeditions she has led in the Himalaya to draw parallels to leadership and teamwork in the workplace. She'll use examples from her experiences where communication, the use of resources, and collaboration towards common goals are key to the success of any endeavor.

Harder places well in races   2/28/07
In late January 2007, Exum guide Brian Harder and Dina Mishev won the duo division in the "24 hours of Sunlight" randonee race in Glenwood Springs. The pair placed 5th overall in that race, climbing 50,000 vertical feet! Harder also took 7th place in the COSMIC race in Snowmass in mid January. Hats off to Brian Harder!!

Santelices to speak at Wharton   2/28/07
The Wharton Business School has invited Exum guide Christian Santelices to give a presentation on leadership at the college on March 22, 2007. Santelices will illustrate his talk with photos from personal and guided expeditions around the world. He will discuss how effective leaders use community, relaxed expectations, and self reflection to affect change and benefit people.

Johnstone, Bowers climb new route on Mount Moran   12/2/06
Exum guides Hans Johnstone and Bean Bowers teamed up with Jackson Hole Mountain Guide Greg Collins to establish a difficult new route on Mount Moran's south buttress on September 29, 2006. The route, dubbed "South Buttress Prow," went at 5.12a/b and is 9 pitches long. Collins described the climb as a beautiful corner system in a spectacular setting. It ascends vertical and overhanging cracks in the right face of a long spine of rock that protrudes at the prow of the buttress.

Major guiding strides for Kent McBride   11/27/06
After leading the largest group to ever complete the Grand Traverse this past summer, Kent McBride made his superb guiding skills official by achieving full UIAGM/AMGA certification during the fall. McBride spent nearly three years on his drive for knowledge and certification, taking courses and passing exams for rock climbing in Red Rocks, Nevada; ski mountaineering in Valdez, Alaska; and alpine climbing in the Cascades of Washington state. Of the experience, McBride commented, "One of the best things that I got from the certification was the observation that I received from other guides with years of experience. This is probably the only time that a guide is tested in this manner." McBride will be guiding climbing and skiing in the Tetons this winter.

Bragg receives Lifetime Achievement Award   11/27/06
On November 7, Marmot Mountain LLC honored Exum guide and Marmot Sales Rep John Bragg with it’s first Lifetime Achievement Award. John is one of Marmot’s first and longest running sales reps since they started in 1974. The award was given to him on the account of his overwhelming dedication to the brand and his love of the climbing lifestyle. He is responsible for some of the world's most notable first ascents.

ISSW honors Evelyn Lees   11/16/06
For the first time, the International Snow Science Workshop (ISSW) held a "Ladies Only Night" celebration. The evening program honored women who have made significant contributions to the field of snow science. Evelyn Lees, an Exum guide for 22 years, was recognized and honored for her 15 years of work as an avalanche forecaster for the Wasatch National Forest Utah Avalanche Center.

Doug Coombs honored with run at JHMR  11/5/06
The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort announced last week that it would christen one of its many unnamed off-piste couloirs in memory of legendary ski mountaineer and Exum guide Doug Coombs, who died in a fall while skiing near LaGrave, France last spring. Connie Kemmerer, resort owner and friend of Doug Coombs, stated, "He had such an impact on this Resort both professionally and personally, he is sorely missed. We hope that with his name now firmly on the map, he will continue to inspire those who enjoy our terrain."

Rod Newcomb honored with AMGA award  11/1/06
On October 21, 2006, the American Mountain Guides Association honored Exum guide and owner Rod Newcomb with the 2006 “Lifetime Achievement in Guiding Award.” The AMGA honors Rod Newcomb for a lifetime of significant contributions to the profession of mountain guiding in America. Rod’s career as a guide has spanned 42 years. He has worked as an avalanche researcher, consultant, and instructor for over three decades, and in 1974 founded the American Avalanche Institute.

McCarthy back from Alaska adventures  7/26/06
Exum guide Forrest McCarthy left Jackson on May 10 and returned July 25, with adventures varying from a Denali expedition, to packrafting remote creeks in the Chugach Range, to studying climate change in the Brooks Range with renown naturalist George Schaller. National Public Radio's Elizabeth Arnold joined the latter expedition for a short while. Her story, which includes Forrest McCarthy sound bites as well as an inspiring interview with Schaller, is available at NPR.org.

Guide represents Exum on Gannett for cancer  7/2/06
Exum guide Amy Brennan McCarthy and friend Derek Collins climbed Gannett Peak on June 24, 2006 as part of a nationwide effort organized by the Climb for Cancer Foundation called "50 States, 50 Peaks, One goal." The drive hopes to fund important research to find a cure for cancer, provide patient support services, and to give a child with cancer the opportunity to attend Camp Sunshine. McCarthy and Collins made their round-trip climb with Derek's dog Hanna in 36 hours. Participants in the drive from around the nation successfully climbed all 50 states' high points over the weekend.

Exum women to guide at Climb4Life event  5/16/06
The second annual Climb4Life Mexico event, sponsored by the HERA Foundation and Copper Canyon Guides, will be held November 4-11, 2006 at the Potrero Chico, Hidalgo, Nuevo Leon, Mexico. Exum women guides will host and guide the event. In addition to a trade show and festival, participants will climb every day and help raise money for the HERA Foundation, which supports research for ovarian cancer.

Exum to offer AMGA courses  5/4/06
This summer and fall, Exum will be offering two American Mountain Guide Association Alpine Guides Courses. Exum guide Tom Hargis will be the lead instructor. Hargis is an AMGA instructor, examiner, and technical committee member. All course participants must meet AMGA prerequisites for the course described at www.amga.com. Course dates are July 2-11 and September 19-28. Cost is $1,800. The first 3-5 days of each course will be in Lander and the remaining days will be in the Tetons. For more details, contact us soon as space is limited.

Mountaineering world mourns loss of Doug Coombs  4/7/06
Renowned Exum guide Doug Coombs died Monday in a fall near LaGrave, France. The loss of this great skier and leader will be felt for a long time by many around the world. A memorial fund has been set up at www.dougcoombsmemorialfund.com and at www.k2skis.com. Be sure to read the first site's heartening visitor comments.

Inn on the Creek offers lodging/climbing packages  3/27/06
Exum has teamed with Inn on the Creek, a fine bed and breakfast in Jackson, to offer three- and four-day climbing and accommodations packages for summer 2006.

Koch establishes new routes in Patagonia  3/9/06
During January and February 2006, Exum guide Stephen Koch had an astonishingly successful trip to Patagonia establishing new routes to the summit of Cerro Torre and Cerro Standhardt with Marko Prezelj and Dean Potter.

Alpinist prints DeLannoy's profile on The Needles  3/9/06
The Needles of South Dakota ain't your grandmother's midwest... unless your grandmother happens to be Jan Conn. In Alpinist 15, Exum guide Pete deLannoy provides the overview while Herb and Jan Conn, John Gill, Bob Archibold, Paul Piana, and Curt Love recount their crystal-pinching adventures in the Black Hills National Forest.

Exum donates to festival  12/18/05
Exum has donated $1,000 to Alpinist Magazine's Barry Corbet Film Festival, set for January 19-21, 2006. The festival honors Jackson Hole mountaineering legend and former Exum guide Barry Corbet with a series of films that unite skiers, surfers, and climbers across disciplines and generations. Proceeds of this year's festival will be donated to the Central Asia Institute to aid in its earthquake relief mission in Pakistan.

Exum creates Enviromental Manager position  11/7/05
In an effort to take more responsibility for our company's environmental impacts, Exum appointed guide Scott McGee to the new position of Environmental Manager in spring of 2005. Read about our environmental philosophy and McGee's work over this past summer.

Exum guide and cancer survivor featured  11/7/05
Exum guide Cara Liberatore was diagnosed with breast cancer in 2004, but for her and those she touches, life has only gotten better.

Jim Williams elected to post at AMGA  9/4/05
Exum guide Jim Williams was elected Vice President of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) at the annual meeting in Brevard, North Carolina this fall. Of his new post, Williams said, "I hope that I will be able to rise to the challenge and benefit the organization and guides around the country."

Exum guides ski Shishapangma  11/7/05
Exum guides Mark Newcomb, Kent McBride, Miles Smart, and Liz Oakes teamed up this fall for a successful expedition to ski Shishapangma in Nepal.

Exum to offer spate of women's programs  10/19/05
Join up for women-only seminars on rock climbing, sport climbing, alpine mountaineering, wilderness trips, and ski mountaineering.

"Alex Lowe Peak" officially christened  9/19/05
After long and difficult process with the US Board on Geographic Names, Terry Cunningham of Bozeman succeeds in naming Peak 10,031 in the northern Gallatin Range of Montana for Alex Lowe, former Exum guide who died in an avalanche on Xixabangma on October 5, 1999. Click for details on Alex Lowe and his connection to Peak 10,031.

Garibotti/Tackle guide youngest/oldest on Grand Traverse  9/4/05
During the last week of August, Exum guides Rolando Garibotti and Jack Tackle guided the youngest and oldest climbers respectively to complete the famous traverse over 10 Teton peaks. Congratulations to Fourteen-year-old Massachusetts resident Ruben Johnson and 65-year-old Jackson resident Bill Givens. Click above to read Michael Pearlman's superb Jackson Hole News&Guide article about these amazing accomplishments.

SKIING Magazine features Exum ski mountaineering  9/4/05
The September 2005 issue of SKIING Magazine featured Exum's ski mountaineering courses in an article by Kevin Fedarko. While the article was well-written and a fun read, Fedarko light-heartedly misrepresented our guides' level of interest in "coddling anxieties."

2005 Rendezvous Mountain Race results are in  9/4/05
Rob Macal and Hailey Herron were the overall winners on August 27. 101 runners and 18 walkers participated.

Exum guide Evelyn Lees featured  7/8/05
Exum guide Evelyn Lees...mother, mountaineer, and co-chief guide at Exum Mountain Guides...was featured this week in the Jackson Hole News & Guide in an article by Angus M. Thuermer Jr. entitled, "Top guide breaks mountaineering mold: '5.11 Evelyn' is a mom, alpinist and avalanche forecaster."

Seven Exum guides to present slides at Ranch  7/1/05
This summer, the Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch is hosting a Climbers' Speakers Series of eight slide shows beginning July 13 and ending August 24. Seven of the speakers are Exum guides. They include Jim Williams, Jack Tackle, Jack Turner, Bean Bowers, Al Read, Doug Coombs, and Peter Lev. Click here to see the schedule of talks.

2005 Ski Camps Great Success  6/27/05
Guides Wes Bunch, Kent McBride, Thomas Turiano, and Anna Keeling led 8 clients on ski mountaineering adventures in the Tetons during the past two weeks. The 5-day camp skied Horseshoe Couloir off the tram, Cave Couloir on the Middle Teton, Northwest Couloir of South Teton, and East Peak Sliver on Nez Perce. The women's camp was successful in skiing the South Teton and the Middle Teton from near the summit.

Interactive Grand photo finally working!  6/2/05
After a long time under construction, we have finally finished building our interactive photo of the Grand Teton. Move your mouse over the image to explore different parts of the Grand Teton. The interactive photo works only with Microsoft Internet Explorer 4.0+. Check it out.

New York Magazine refers Gannett readers to Exum  6/1/05
Tim Cahill wrote a fine article about Gannett Peak in the May 2, 2005 issue of New York Magazine (pp.74-75). Exum is mentioned as the guide service of choice for an expedition to Gannett Peak. Click here to read the article.

Self-regulation encouraged at Devils Tower  5/18/05
Scott Brown, Chief Ranger at Devils Tower National Monument, has asked all climbers to heed the voluntary closure to climbing at Devils Tower during the month of June out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on this and other climbing closures at the Tower, please contact Jim Cheatham, Chief of Resource Management, at (307)467-5283, ext 12, or visit the Devils Tower web site at www.nps.gov/deto/.

Williams provides Everest dispatches  4/12/05
Exum guide Jim Williams currently is guiding on Mount Everest. Dispatches from the expedition are available at the link above.

Exum teams with LazyTX for Gannett Peak  3/28/05
For the summer of 2005 and beyond, Exum is partnering with LazyTX outfitters of Dubois, Wyoming to ease the strain of the approach into Wyoming's highest and most remote mountain. Now, for an all-inclusive price, you can ride a saddle horse into basecamp, while packhorses carry your gear. If some or all of your group prefer to walk, that's fine too. You still can take advantage of LazyTX's spot camps and fully-stocked spike camp in Downs Fork Meadow during the first two and last two nights of the trip. If you have been waiting for the ascent of Gannett Peak to somehow get easier and more civilized, now is your chance!

Tetons and Exum guides touted in Couloir Magazine  3/19/05
The feature article of Couloir's March issue is titled "King of the Hill - why Jackson Hole is North America's Epicenter of Ski Mountaineering." Authored by Peter Kray, this fine article contains accolades such as "America's equivalent to the mountaineering heritage of Chamonix, France" and "legendary Exum Mountain Guides...where you respectively add graduate and PhD level training in the art and science of mountaineering." It also showcases, mentions, and quotes many current and former Exum guides, including Rod and Mark Newcomb, Thomas Turiano, Rick Wyatt, Stephen Koch, Doug Coombs, Hans Johnstone, Kent McBride, and Bill Briggs. If you are interested in ski mountaineering, do not miss this article. Subscribe at couloirmag.com.

Gilmore and Mahoney nominated for Piolet d'Or  2/16/05
Exum Guides Ben Gilmore and Kevin Mahoney have been nominated for the 2004 Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) award. The nomination is for their ascent of Arctic Rage on Moose's Tooth in the Alaska Range last spring (the climb was featured in Alpinist Magazine). Organizers of the competition are the French GHM (Groupe de Haute Montagne) and Montagnes Magazine. The nominations are recognition of the most important alpine achievements over the past year. It is a great honor to be nominated. The award will be presented in Grenoble, France on 25 February.

Exum ski mountaineering featured in Men's Journal  2/5/05
In the March 2005 issue of Men's Journal, Kevin Fedarko wrote a superb and hilarious article about skiing with Exum guides Wes Bunch, Thomas Turiano, and Mark Newcomb. Fedarko also visits with Bill Briggs, ski mountaineering patriarch and former Exum guide. This article is not to be missed.

Exum partners with Murie Center  1/14/05
Exum and The Murie Center are collaborating to offer winter mountaineering, winter ecology, and accommodations. Located on the historic Murie Ranch in Grand Teton National Park, the center carries forward the values inherent in the Muries’ teachings: respect for nature, the importance of wilderness and responsible action. For 2005, Murie Center accommodations and programs will be available for participants of Exum's ski and snowboard mountaineering courses. Look for more exciting programs in 2006. For details about the center, visit muriecenter.org.

Turiano's Select Peaks wins award  1/11/05
Select Peaks of Greater Yellowstone, a study of mountaineering in the region by Exum guide Thomas Turiano, received the Mountains and Plains Booksellers Association's 2005 Regional Reference Book Award. More information about the book can be found at www.SelectPeaks.com.

Exum Guides set up Beacon Basin on Teton Pass  1/1/05
Exum guides Christian Santelices, Rod Newcomb, and Mark Newcomb collaborated with Backcountry Access to install an avalanche beacon practice area (called a Beacon Basin) on Phillips Bench near Teton Pass. Santelices said, "We really wanted it to be public access so that people can get more practice so they're able to be safer in the mountains."

Dave Carman honored for Cerro Torre climb  12/4/04
Last month, 27 years after his breakthrough ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, Exum mountain guide Dave Carman was honored for his accomplishment by the renowned Italian mountaineering club of Lecco, Ragni de Lecco...the Lecco Spiders. Carman was the American guest of honor of one of the oldest and most respected mountaineering clubs in Italy.

Exum Guides win top honors at AMGA meeting  11/6/04
Exum guides won all three guiding awards at the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Annual Meeting this past month. Exum co-owner Tom Hargis received the Lifetime Achievement in Guiding Award. The award honors "outstanding Americans, who by their efforts over a period of years have made contributions of significant value to the profession of mountain guiding, and have reflected credit upon America and themselves." Miles Smart received the AMGA Outstanding Guide of the Year Award. The award is for "the most outstanding mountain guiding achievement in the profession of mountain guiding for the year." Doug Coombs received the AMGA President's Award. for "enthusiasm towards guiding and positive attitude."

Acceptable Risk available on DVD  10/29/04
Teton climber Gregory Winston's superb movie about the Grand Teton National Park Climbing Rangers is now available on DVD. Winston takes a seat in the rescue helicopter and goes along on rescues to capture footage never shot before. Archival footage and photographs illustrate the beginnings of mountain rescue. Join this tight-knit team and learn the ins-and-outs of high-mountain rescue. Sponsored by the American Alpine Club. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to the The Jenny Lake Rescue Fund.

ISSW yields accolades for Exum guides and associates  10/12/04
Exum guides assisted the American Avalanche Institute, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, and US Forest Service, which together hosted the 2004 International Snow Science Workshop during September 19-24. The American Avalanche Association awarded Exum guide and co-owner Rod Newcomb an honorary membership for his contributions to increasing avalanche awareness world wide. Rod, in turn, recognized Juris Krisjansons and Gary Poulson for their contributions to avalanche safety at the Jackson Hole ski area. Krisjanson's recognition was given posthumously to widow Margo Krisjansons, Exum office staffer for many years. For further details on the ISSW, please visit the ISSW website.

David Shlim publishes Medicine and Compassion  10/12/04
David R. Shlim, M.D. is an internationally recognized expert on altitude illness and travel medicine who ran a medical clinic in Kathmandu, Nepal for 15 years. He is married to Jane Gallie, who has worked in the Exum office for 22 years. He has just published a book called Medicine and Compassion: A Tibetan Lama's Guidance for Caregivers, in collaboration with Chokyi Nyima Rinpoche (Wisdom Publications, Boston, 2004). The book is intended for any caregiver who has ever wished they could be more compassionate. The book is also a very accessible introduction to Tibetan Buddhist philosophy. If taking care of others is part of your life, this book may help give you renewed confidence and patience.

Liberatore featured on Jane Pauley Show  9/10/04
For her tireless work using mountaineering to raise funds for cancer research, Exum guide Cara Liberatore and "Expedition Inspiration" were featured on the Jane Pauley Show this week.

2004 Rendezvous Mountain Race results are in  8/31/04
Rob Macal and Laurie Harris were the overall winners on August 28.

Bullard profiled in Jackson Hole News&Guide  8/29/04
Angus Thuermer explains in this superb profile how Exum guide Amy Bullard was inspired to become a guide.

New York Times features Tetons and Jack Tackle  8/21/04
In her August 20, Times article, journalist Wendy Knight extols Teton climbing and the tenure of Exum guide Jack Tackle.

Jackson Hole journalist salutes Exum guide Tom Bennett  8/21/04
Journalist Johanna Love climbed the Grand Teton last week with Exum guide Tom Bennett and wrote an article in the Jackson Hole News & Guide about her experience.

In the footsteps of Shackleton  7/16/04
In 2000, Exum President Al Read led a Geographic Expeditions journey across South Georgia Island in the footsteps of Sir Ernest Shackleton. Geographic Expeditions is offering a guided expedition to repeat this incredible adventure in November 2004.

PBS show about Exum program nominated  6/7/04
During the summer of 2002, Jim Peck of Idaho Public Television produced a film about "Expedition Inspiration." Coordinated by Exum guide Cara Liberatore, Expedition Inspiration was a week-long climbing program in the Tetons benefiting breast cancer research and survivor wellness. The film features ten participants and their Exum guides including Liberatore, her husband Bill, Jim Williams, and Wes Bunch. The film, entitled "Teton Inspiration," is part adventure tale, part travel essay, and part human- interest story. It was nominated for a Northwest Regional Emmy Award.

Coombs guides ski descent of Grand  6/6/04
During June 2004, Exum Mountain Guide Doug Coombs guided ski descents of the Grand Teton on two occasions.

Exum guide Amy Bullard summits Everest  5/18/04
Dispatch from Amy: "Our whole team summitted Everest on May 17th in warm, foggy conditions. We passed many people on the way up and filmed for about three hours on the way down. We all successfully made it back home by May 26th, healthy, well fed, and happy to be back in the green. The expedition was a huge success with lots of film footage as well as new friends made. For me this was an amazing opportunity to guide Steven Daldry and Jon Finn and to be part of such a wonderful expedition of people on one of the greatest mountains on earth. For more details, please follow this Google link.

Exum Guides to present at Peak Performance Weekend  5/17/04
Exum Mountain Guide Brian Prax will present training-specific strategies for mountaineering at the annual Peak Performance Weekend, June 5-6 in Jackson Hole, WY. Provided by Grand Dynamics, Inc., the Weekend is filled with presenters providing strategies on overall fitness, nutrition, mental focus, and goal setting. The Weekend is a component of "The Grand Adventure," a cutting-edge training program that culminates with an ascent of the Grand Teton. Also at the Peak Performance Weekend (Sat. evening), Exum guide Stephen Koch will present an inspirational slide show on his Seven Summits Quest, including his recent expedition on Mount Everest and climbing the Grand Teton.

Three-day ski camp great success  5/9/04
During May 3-5, Exum guide Kevin Pusey led three clients, ages 22-50, for three days of ski mountaineering training and adventure. The first part of day one was spent reviewing basic snow skills at the top of the Jackson Hole Ski Area accessed via the aerial tram. Day one finished in Corbet's Couloir with dynamic rope skills such as rappelling and belaying. Day two began with descent of Corbet's, and then culminated with a lot of skiing and skinning practice in Tower 3 Chute. With an early start on day three, the team attempted a ski descent of Buck Mountain, clicking into their skis just shy of the summit due to warm conditions.

Breashears sends update from Everest  4/30/04
Exum guide David Breashears and his team, which includes Exum guide Amy Bullard, have been enjoying superb weather and climbing conditions on Everest. Here's their story as they prepare to push toward the summit.

Bullard and Breashears work on Everest film  4/13/04
Working Title Films' Stephen Daldry will direct a film and climbing crew, including Exum guides Amy Bullard and David Breashears, in the on-location production of EVEREST, which will chronicle the tragic events of May 10, 1996 when a brutal storm on the world's highest mountain claimed the lives of eight mountaineers.

Guides introduce guides at Earth Day talks  4/12/04
On April 22, author and guide Thomas Turiano will be presenting a slide show as keynote speaker for the Murie Center's Earth Day Festival at the National Museum of Wildlife Art in Jackson Hole. Exum guide and author Jack Turner will introduce Turiano before he discusses his adventures on the peaks featured in his new book, Select Peaks of Greater Yellowstone. Turner also will speak at the Earth Day festival in Sun Valley, where former Exum guide Dick Dorworth will introduce him.

Chabot to spend summer in Pakistan  4/12/04
Exum guide Doug Chabot will be joining an ambitious summer-long expedition to Pakistan beginning on June 11 and returning September 8. Without sponsorship, Chabot first will venture into the Charakusa Valley for five weeks with Steve House, Jeff Hollenbach, Bruce Miller, and Marko Prezelj to attempt K6, K7, Kapura Peak, and one other peak. He then will join Steve Swenson for a 25-day attempt on the unclimbed Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat.

Exum receives grand media coverage  3/16/04
The latest issue of Skiing Magazine includes an article by David Gonzales about skiing Buck Mountain and Exum's ski mountaineering camps as his choice for one of the five top clinics for ski mountaineering! In that same issue, Doug Coombs describes his ski mountaineering pack and there is a two-page spread on what he puts in it! On the feature contents page, there is a photo of Mark Newcomb on Buck's east ridge. Stephen Koch is on the cover of this month's issue of Outside Magazine!. Exum will be featured in the next issue of Outside Magazine in a 6000-plus-word article by Kevin Fedarko and Nick Heil.

O'Neill excels at randonee races  3/12/04
Exum mountain guide Brendan O'Neill placed second at a Life-Link/Dynafit Ski Mountaineering Series Race at Whistler, B.C., and first at Crested Butte. This showing put O'Neill on top of the point series in North America. In a recent World Cup Ski Mountaineering race in Andorra, O'Neill placed 22nd out of 74 entrants. And at the Ski Mountaineering World Championships in Val D'Aran, Spain, he placed 17th out of 56. At the end of this month, O'Neill will attempt to repeat as the North American and Life-Link/Dynafit champion at a race in Jackson Hole. O'Neill says he trains really hard, "i.e. skiing as much as possible."

Williams honored for rescue  2/28/04
Exum mountain guide Jim Williams received the National Park Service Search and Rescue Pin for his superb and unselfish efforts in affecting a rescue of stranded and seriously injured climbers on the Grand Teton on August 31, 2003. The pin is awarded to individuals of the general public who render direct assistance in a SAR incident.

McCarthy guides Mount Vinson...reaches summit  1/24/04
Exum Mountain Guide Forrest McCarthy successfully reached the summit of Antarctica's highest peak with nine clients and one other guide on January 13. Working the trip for Alpine Ascents International, McCarthy's fellow guide was Lakpa Rita, who became the first Sherpa to climb Mount Vinson. Weather on the 16,067-foot summit was windless and -20° F, which felt warm in the Austral summer sun. The expedition arrived at Patriot Hills on January 7 and returned to Chile after waiting for six windy days on January 22.

Exum Guides make first winter Grand Traverse  1/23/04
Exum Mountain Guides Mark Newcomb, Stephen Koch, and Hans Johnstone succeeded this past weekend at climbing nine major Teton peaks in one push in winter. Along with Jenny Lake Climbing Ranger and Teton guidebook author Renny Jackson, they traversed the rugged technical ridge between Teewinot, Owen, Grand Teton, Middle Teton, South Teton, Gilkey Tower, Spalding Peak, Cloudveil Dome, and Nez Perce. This long sought-after achievement is believed to be the Teton's last great challenge.

Turiano releases Select Peaks book  11/28/03
Exum guide Thomas Turiano has released his long-awaited book, Select Peaks of Greater Yellowstone: A Mountaineering History and Guide. This book is a must for anyone interested in the Tetons, Wind Rivers, and Beartooths. It features mountaineering history and guide information for 107 of the most spectacular peaks from 13 mountain ranges. Available at www.SelectPeaks.com.

Tolle publishes book and article on Needles  11/28/03
Exum guide Cindy Tolle wrote a superb article in the December issue of Rock and Ice about The Needles of South Dakota. Concurrently, she has released an "e-guidebook" for climbing in The Needles. This is Part I of three ebooks she intends to publish for climbing in the Black Hills. Tolle also has been busy climbing near her ranch in the Sierra Madre of Mexico. In early November, she completed the first ascent of the 3,000-foot nose of El Gigante. This spring, Tolle will be guiding women's climbing seminars and presenting slides about climbing in Mexico to raise funds for children in the Tutuaca Valley of Mexico. For further details on Tolle's ventures, visit www.tutuaca.org.

Winter hits the Tetons...hard  11/21/03
With snowfall totals greater than any autumn since 1985, this winter is shaping up to be a great one. Snow has fallen steadily since early November (4 feet at 9,300 feet) creating a relatively stable base layer. This should be a great year to come to the Tetons and join us for backcountry skiing, ski mountaineering, and winter ascents. With continued consistent snow, the solidity of our base layers will only improve and set us up for a relatively low-avalanche-hazard season. Check out our winter offerings.

Hawse leads successful Ama Dablam expedition  11/20/03
This fall, Exum guide Angela Hawse led a successful all women's expedition, sponsored by Marmot, to Ama Dablam (22,494 feet) in Nepal with Kathy Cosley and Exum guide Anna Keeling. The nine-member team, calling themselves the "mAmas Dablam," raised $18,000 for the dZi Foundation that has helped to establish a safe house for young women in Sikkim, India. After one aborted attempt, Hawse and Ellie Pryor of Jackson, WY summitted on November 9 from Camp 2 at 19,700 feet in a 10-hour round-trip push.

Santelices and Muncaster place well in race  11/19/03
Exum guide Christian Santelices, his wife and Exum office staff member Sue Muncaster, along with Hans Florine competed last weekend in their first adventure race at Santa Monica, California. The race involved 23 miles of hiking, 53 miles of mountain biking, and 10 miles of sea-kayaking. They were the fastest "rookie" team, placing 21st overall and 4th in their category (non-elite co-ed).

Coombs achieves full UIAGM certification  11/9/03
This fall, Exum guide Doug Coombs passed his rock exam to become one of the only fully certified Teton guides.

Coombs featured in Skiing Magazine  11/9/03
Exum guide Doug Coombs was featured in the October 2003 issue of Skiing Magazine in an article by David Gonzales, who raved about Coombs' skiing and guiding in the Alps, Alaska, and Tetons.

Exum featured in Outside Online  11/5/03
The upper Exum Ridge and Exum guides are featured in a brief, but informative, on-line article in Outside Online. Click here.

Newcomb and Coombs featured in Powder Magazine  11/5/03
In a superb article by Porter Fox, Exum guides Mark Newcomb and Doug Coombs each have their own page in the October 2003 issue of Powder Magazine. Along with a full-page photo, the article lists their beginnings, first descents, definitions of ski mountaineering, opinions on ski tech and safety, and much more.

Koch Everest attempt great success, without summit  10/31/03
Stephen Koch spent most of the summer and fall attempting to climb and snowboard Everest without supplemental oxygen. Although fatigue, bad weather, and deep snow stopped him from making the top, his small team, which exhibited great depth of character, enjoyed being the only team on the mountain and rode some incredible powder at high altitude. Will Koch return for another try?

2003 Rendezvous Hill Climb Race Results  8/31/03
On August 30, sixty-five mountain runners competed in a race to the top of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Click on this headline to see the results.

HERA Foundation Grand climb big success  8/24/03
Exum guides lead a group of people whose lives have been effected by cancer to the top of the Grand Teton on July 10, 2003.

Exum to train Nepalese climbing instructors  6/22/03
The Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation is teaming up with Exum Mountain Guides to train a select group of Sherpa mountain guides to become instructors for the new Sherpa Climbing School Project. These Sherpa trainers, working alongside other North American alpinists and Exum guides, will be the instructors at the school's first two week class held next February in Nepal. Twenty sherpas will be invited to attend where they will learn valuable rope work, climbing techniques and first aid skills.

The Everest experience evolves  6/5/03
In the second part of his article in the Jackson Hole News & Guide, Michael Pearlman discusses the changing atmosphere atop the world's tallest peak with Jackson Hole climbers and Exum guides who have recently attempted Mount Everest.

Stephen Koch gains press and sponsorship for Quest  6/5/03
Only one peak away from completing a ten-year Quest to snowboard from the top of the seven summits of the world, Exum guide Stephen Koch recently was featured in the May 2003 issue of Outside Magazine. With Denali, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Aconcagua, Cartstenz Pyramid, and Vinson under his belt, Koch only has Everest left to climb and snowboard. Funding for his expeditions has been one of the biggest challenges, and Everest will be the most expensive of all. Recently, Koch acquired a sponsorship deal with SoBe and will be featured on "Late Night with Conan O'Brien" on June 19th - press that will hopefully bring in additional much-needed funding. Also, he will hold a fundraising raffle and party at the Snake River Brewery on June 18th at 6:00 PM with prizes like Dynafit skis and boots and many other big-ticket prizes.

Kim Schmitz retires after 37-year career  6/5/03
Exum guide Kim Schmitz is highly respected by clients and fellow guides for his passion for high adventure and soft-spoken ability to motivate. His presence amongst the Exum ranks will be missed.

Slots available on Grand Teton  5/31/03
As a result of a couple of cancellations, slots have come available in the Exum Hut on the Lower Saddle for Grand Teton climbs. The openings are up for grabs on July 21, 25, and 28. Please call us at 307-733-2297 to check availability.

Jackson climbers recall experiences on Mount Everest  5/30/03
Since the first American expedition to the 29,028 foot peak was launched in 1963, Exum guides and other Jackson Hole residents have been a part of the storied history of glory and tragedy that has accompanied the quest for the ultimate climbing goal. In commemoration of the May 29th anniversary of the first ascent of the peak, Michael Pearlman of the Jackson Hole News & Guide spoke to many Jackson Hole residents who participated in expeditions to Everest. Here is Part I of his superb article...

Snowpack and weather allows for early climbs  5/29/03
Despite exceptional late winter snowfall, the Tetons have undergone unseasonably warm weather over the past week, which has densified the snowpack and cleared off many of the classic climbing routes. If you would like to climb the Grand Teton this summer, but were unable to book a trip in July and August, consider a trip in June, as conditions may be superb. Ski campers (June 3-7) need not worry as conditions should still be excellent for ski mountaineering.

Santelices guides and films overseas  5/29/03
In February, Exum guide Christian Santelices joined other Nike ACG sponsored athletes to film a Warren Miller movie that is due out this fall. The group snowboarded in the High Atlas Mountains in Morocco, river kayaked in the Middle Atlas Mountains, and surfed on the Atlantic coast of Morocco. On June 3, Santelices leaves for a week of rock climbing guiding in South Africa. He and his client will spend time at Table Mountain in Cape Town, and then climb the Sentinel, a 1,500-foot tower in Ukhahlamba-Drakensburg Park. During July and August, Christian will travel to Leysin, Switzerland to guide on the Matterhorn, Mt. Blanc, and other peaks as a guide with International School of Mountaineering (ISM).

Roskelley climbs Everest with son  5/25/03
At 7:30am (Nepal time) on May 21, former Exum Guide and veteran Himalayan climber John Roskelley, 54, summitted Mount Everest with his 20-year-old son Jess, a mountain guide and student at the University of Montana. The pair represents two generations of the "Generations on Everest" group that set out for the summit on March 26. Their final ascent day was very difficult with snow and heavy winds all the way up. Jess is now the youngest American to have climbed Mount Everest. For John, the summit was a sweet victory after failed attempts in 1983, 1984, and 1993.

Jack Tackle receives the David Ambler Sowles Award  3/27/03
American climbing pioneer Andrew John Kauffman created this award for climbers who exemplify the spirit of David Ambler Sowles, who died in a thunderstorm in the Alps after abandoning his own climbing objectives to rescue a climber on a different climb. Both Jack Tackle and Charlie Sassara, who recently braved a harrowing descent to rescue Tackle on Mount Augusta, won the award for their enduring assistance to climbers in need.

Miles Smart featured in Outside Magazine  1/28/03
Exum Guide Miles Smart was featured with twenty-four other athletes in the December 2002 issue of Outside Magazine in an article titled, "Adventure's Next Generation: The Best New Paddlers, Explorers, Alpinists, Skiers, Surfers: Atomic Youth: 25 All-Stars! New and Improved."

Exum announces 2003 "Climbing for a Cure" program  1/17/03
In August 2002, Exum guided the first annual "Climbing for a Cure" Expedition Inspiration team toward the summit of the Grand Teton. Consisting of ten remarkable individuals, the team shared a week together in the Jackson vicinity that culminated in a symbolic two-day ascent of the Grand Teton. This summer's "Climbing for a Cure" is set for July 5-11.

Grand Dynamics' announces 2003 program  1/11/03
The Grand Adventure is a six-month health, wellness and leadership program that culminates with a climb up the Grand Teton with Exum. Participants from across the county will join together in June for The Peak Performance Weekend and again for the climb in September. The Grand Adventure begins May 2003.

Grand Dynamics' program to air on Fox Sports News  12/6/02
The Grand Adventure is being featured on Fox Sports News December 30. A tape of the show will be shown at a party from 2:30pm to 4:00pm on December 16 at Sidewinders in Jackson. This will be followed by the Grand Dynamics' version of their "2002 Grand Adventure" program.

Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation benefits Sherpas  11/19/02
Jenni Lowe, Conrad Anker, and Jon Krakauer are raising money for a climbing school modeled after Exum Mountain Guides in Nepal. Sherpas will receive technical climbing training and a trust will be established to assist the families of fallen Sherpa climbers.

Newcomb first on Sepu Kangri  10/18/02
Exum guide Mark Newcomb and Carlos Buhler made the first ascent this week of Sepu Kangri (22,821 feet), the highest peak in Tibet's Nyenchen Tanghla range.

Breashears to guide with Exum  10/18/02
Renowned adventure cinematographer, David Breashears, will return to guiding in summer of 2003 with Exum Mountain Guides.

Erickson skis Cho Oyu  10/18/02
Exum guide Kris Erickson becomes first American male to ski an 8,000-meter peak with a recent ski descent of Cho Oyu in Nepal.

Northern Rockies forest fire free!  6/24/02
Rainfall has quelled the risk of forest fires in the northern Rockies and Tetons, while the southern and central Rocky Mountains have not been so fortunate. The skies over Jackson Hole are smoke free and the hillsides are moist and green.

Four Exum Guides Ski Moran's CMC Route  5/21/02
Exum guides Hans Johnstone, Doug Coombs, Bill Dyer, and Kent McBride make first ski descent of CMC Route on Mount Moran.

Snow conditions in Tetons superb!  4/19/02
Late season snow storms have brought season snowfall totals to about 100% of normal. Snow depths average about 80 inches at 9,000 feet with considerably more at higher elevation. This all means that we expect snow conditions to be in prime shape for our Teton Ski and Snowboard Adventures in late May and early June.

Exum guides to be featured on ESPN2  4/9/02
Exum guides Thomas Turiano and Scott McGee will be featured on ESPN-2's "Destination Outdoors" Sunday, April 14 at 9:30am EST. Tom and Scott were filmed in March 2002 skiing steep trees and digging snow study pits based out of the Rendezvous Ski and Snowboard Tours' Baldy Knoll yurt.

Stephen Koch announces climbing/snowboarding plans  4/7/02
Exum guide Stephen Koch will tackle Nuptse this spring, then Everest in late summer.

Exum Guide Receives AAC's Highest Honor  2/13/02
On February 1, 2002, the American Alpine Club awarded Exum guide Nancy Feagin the 2002 Robert and Miriam Underhill Award.

Ten Exum Guides to Present Slides  1/28/02
This winter, Exum guide Kevin Pusey is hosting the First Annual Winter Adventure Slideshow Series at his restaurant, the Gros Ventre Grill in Bondurant, Wyoming. Ten Exum guides have signed up for the weekly series that begins on February 3 and ends on April 7. $30 includes slideshow, dinner, and transportation.

Stephen Koch enjoys superb climbing conditions in Europe  1/22/02
After attending ceremonies for the Piolet d' Or ("Golden Ice Axe") Award in Chamonix, France, Exum guide Stephen Koch and Marko Prezelj have succeeded in climbing several difficult alpine and ice routes in fast time. On Auguille Sans Nom, they free-climbed Marc Twight's "There Goes the Neighborhood" in a day and a half. They also free-climbed Twight's "Beyond Good and Evil" in five hours from the bergschrund to the summit. In the valley, they made a rare ascent of "La Dam du Lac," a beautiful Grade 6 ice line that has not formed well since it was first climbed in 1992. Koch and Prezelj are now climbing in Slovenia.

Middle Teton climb rated in Top 100 Adventures  1/20/02
In a March/April 2000 article recently republished online, National Geographic Adventure magazine lists a trip up the Middle Teton with Exum Guides as number 23 out of 100 top adventures worldwide.

Exum Guide Distinguished in Sports Illustrated Women  1/9/02
Exum guide Kim Csizmazia appeared in a news piece entitled "Freezing Reign: Kim Csizmazia sets out to reclaim her title as the world's best female ice climber" in the February 2002 issue of Sports Illustrated Women. Kim was the gold medal winner in the '98 and '99 X Games, and winner of three out of five events at the first Ice Climbing World Cup in Europe in 2000. This month, Kim will coach "Chicks with Picks" ice clinics in Ouray and North Conway, and compete in the 2002 Ice Climbing World Cup final in Quebec.

Exum Guide Invited to International Competition  12/24/01
After winning the first annual Life-Link/Dynafit Randonnée Rally at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort in March of 2001, Exum guide Brendan O'Neill has been invited to compete in the first Ski Mountaineering World Championship, to be held January 27, 2002 in Serre Chevalier, France.

Exum Guide Authors Outside Magazine Article  12/24/01
The January 2002 issue of Outside Magazine features an article by Exum guide Jack Turner entitled, "Walking the Line," in which Turner reflects on his experiences with wilderness in the United States and parts of Afghanistan.

Exum Guide Nominated for Mountaineering Award  12/24/01
For their pioneering ascent of "Light Traveler" on Denali in spring of 2001, Exum guide Stephen Koch and Marko Prezelj have been nominated for the 2001 Piolet d' Or ("Golden Ice Axe") Award. This French award is for the year's best climb and is regarded as one of the most prestigious international awards in mountaineering.

Exum Guides Train the First Cuban Guides  11/28/01
Cuban climbers Anibal Fernandez and Carlos Pinelo spent much of the autumn of 2001 climbing, guiding, and training with Exum guides Armando Menocal, Christian Santelices, and Dave Ryan.

Exum Guide Featured in Rock & Ice Magazine  11/28/01
Exum guide Kevin Mahoney is featured as a pioneer of Alaskan climbing in Rock & Ice Magazine, #113, p. 68-69. The title of the article is: "Gilmore & Mahoney. These Two Unassuming Alpinists Are Living The Future of Alaskan Climbing."

Exum President Featured in Outside Magazine  11/26/01
Exum President and guide Al Read is listed among 25 of the world's leading adventurers as the "Uber Guide" on page 58 of the December 2001 issue of Outside Magazine in an article entitled "The A Team: The 25 Best Climbers, Explorers, Kayakers, Guides, Enviro-Crusaders." "The guides inspire and astonish me," says Read. "Without them, Exum is nothing more than a pile of ropes.

Teton Ski and Snowboard Adventures Videos Available  11/15/01
If you haven't decided whether or not you will register for this popular program, purchase this exciting video on-line for an insider's view of the camp, with its spectacular scenery and action. Just $5.

Exum Guide Amy Brennan Joins The Murie Center  11/4/01
Exum Guide Amy Brennan is hired on as Director of Development and Communications at The Murie Center, an organization based in Grand Teton National Park advocating the value of wild nature and its connection to the human spirit.

Climbing Magazine Touts Exum Guides  10/31/01
Climbing Magazine's Hot Flashes in their October 2001 issue discussed the new Alaska Range routes of Exum guides Stephen Koch and Kevin Mahoney. Not included in this brief is Rolando Garibotti and Steve House's remarkable 25-hour ascent of the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker. Last year it took another dynamic duo eight days to do the same route! Exum guides are playing a big role in the new trend to climb huge Alaskan routes in a single push with just a rope, minimal rack, and a few energy bars - no bivy gear or food!

Mens Journal Features Exum Guide and Cuba Climbing  10/25/01
Mens Journal reporter follows Exum guides Armando Menocal, Al Read, and Dave Ryan into Cuba's spectacular climbing areas.

Rendezvous Hill Climb Race Results  9/18/01
65 mountain runners push their limits up Rendezvous Mountain to benefit the Hans Saari Memorial Fund and Friends of the Avalanche Center, Bozeman, MT.

Exum Guide Launches Cuba Web Site  9/17/01
Exum guide Armando Menocal announces the launch of his travel and climbing web site to Cuba, touted as one of the world's most spectacular adventure travel destinations.

Jackson Hole Forest Fire is Out!  8/1/01
A large blaze that since August 22 burned 4,470 acres of the Snake River mountain range southwest of Jackson, Wyoming has been extinguished. Smoke has completely cleared in the skies over Jackson Hole and the Tetons. Click to get up-to-date fire reports.

Hans Saari Memorial  7/29/01
A eulogy for a wonderful young mountaineer and guide who died on May 7, 2001 while skiing the Tardivel entrance of the Gervasutti Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul near Chamonix, France.

Forest Fire Has Little Effect on Teton Climbing  7/28/01
Since August 22, a large blaze has burned over 2,500 acres of the Snake River mountain range southwest of Jackson, Wyoming. Prevailing southwesterly winds have sullied the skies over southern Jackson Hole with mild orange smoke, but the high Tetons have remained clear twenty miles to the north. Click to get up-to-date fire reports.

Rendezvous Mountain Race in its 14th Year  7/16/01
Sign up for Jackson Hole's classic mountain foot race, the Exum Mountain Guides Rendezvous Mountain Race, slated for August 25, 2001.

Greater Yellowstone's Last Unclimbed Major Peak  7/13/01
Exum Guides Tom Turiano, Matt Goewert, and Forrest McCarthy venture to the head of the Yellowstone River to climb Turret Mountain, a treacherous volcanic spire that has thwarted all previous attempts.

Exum Guides Have Banner Season in Alaska Range  6/20/01
Chabot, Koch, Garibotti, Ryan, McCarthy, Williams, Mujica, House, and Goewert achieve great climbing and guiding successes on Denali, Hunter, and Foraker.

Nancy Feagin Reaches Everest Summit  6/6/01
Exum Guide Nancy Feagin summitted Mount Everest on May 23 with the "Everyone Has An Everest" expedition. A second newspaper article.

Nancy Feagin Reaches Everest Summit  5/25/01
Exum Guide Nancy Feagin summitted Mount Everest on May 23 with the "Everyone Has An Everest" expedition.

Santelices Ponders the Costs of Outdoor Sports  5/19/01
In the wake of several deaths and injuries of some of our closest friends and fellow guides, Exum guide Christian Santelices puts this risky game in perspective.

A Memorial for Hans Saari  5/19/01
Powder Magazine remembers Exum guide and Powder correspondent Hans Saari, skier, writer, and friend.

Memorial for Chuck Pratt  6/18/01
A Celebration of the Life of Charles Marshall Pratt will be held on June 21, 2001. All are invited.

Patridge and Saari  5/18/01
A second-hand account of their ski mountaineering accidents.

Exum Guide Stephen Koch Snowboards Carstensz Pyramid  5/14/01
Koch helps organize a clean-up of Carstensz base camp. With this fun adventure in New Guinea, Koch now has successfully climbed and snowboarded six of the Seven Summits of the world. He will attempt Everest next.

Exum Guide Hans Saari Killed in the French Alps  5/12/01
Exum guide Nat Patridge is recovering from a separate skiing accident.

Teton Snowpack In OK Condition  5/19/01
Don't give up on skiing and snowboarding yet. This was one of the best spring seasons in over a decade. But, conditions have changed fast!

Exum Guide Forrest McCarthy is Featured  5/12/01
The Jackson Hole Guide newspaper publishes an excellent article about Forrest.

Exum Guides Traverse South Georgia Island  5/6/01
In November 2000, Exum guides Al Read and Jim Williams successfully co-guided a Geographic Expeditions' traverse of South Georgia Island repeating Shackleton's harrowing 1916 crossing.

First Winter Ascent of Mount Moran's South Buttress  3/27/01
Exum guides Mark Newcomb and Hans Johnstone, along with ex-Exum guide and Grand Teton Park climbing ranger Renny Jackson, returned on March 9th after a five-day winter ascent of the great South Buttress of Mount Moran in the Tetons, the first successful climb of this route in winter.

An Exum Guide Attends International Meet  3/20/01
Early in March 2001, Stephen Koch spent two weeks in Scotland representing American climbers during the 2001 International Climbers Meet. A wild time was had by all!

Exum Guides Ski Peaks on Antarctic Peninsula  3/20/01
On March 1, Exum guides Hans Saari and Kris Erickson, along with John Griber and Rick Armstrong, and film-maker Doug Stoup set sail across the Drake Passage to spend two weeks exploring islands and fjords along the Antarctic Peninsula based from a Russian icebreaker. They combed 600 miles of coastline in search of spectacular ski terrain, which they accessed with high-powdered zodiak rafts to make the ascents and descents.

Chuck Pratt, from the Memories of Doug Robinson  3/16/01
Doug Robinson would like to join those remembering Chuck. Here is a piece he wrote about him and the times they shared. The article will be published in the newly revived Mountain Gazette.

Williams guides his Seventh Summit  3/14/01
With a January 15th ascent of Aconcagua, Exum guide Jim Williams became the first mountain guide to lead clients to each of the world's Seven Summits, all within the span of nine months! Eleven people from his party reached the summit the Guanacos valley route.

Garnet Canyon nets Himalayan training  3/13/01
An article by Ron Matous.

Reactions to the death of Chuck Pratt  2/27/01
Read this compilation of heartfelt memorials.

Exum teams with Trails Wilderness School for Kids Camp  2/21/01
The second annual Kids' ski and snowboard mountaineering camp will be held this spring in the Tetons.

Memorial Dates Set for Chuck Pratt  2/20/01
Join us in commemorating the life of Chuck Pratt on June 21, 2001.

Exum secures a new Forest Service Permit  2/20/01
Now hire an Exum guide for backcountry skiing and snowboarding on the moderate terrain in Mail Cabin Creek and Mount Oliver, both near Teton Pass. A special introductory rate applies!

Ski and Snowboard Camp Video Now Available  1/11/01
If you haven't decided whether or not you will register for the Exum Ski and Snowboard Mountaineering Camps, purchase this exciting video on-line for an insider's view of the camp and its spectacular scenery and action.

Biography of Chuck Pratt  1/11/01
From an article in the Jackson Hole News by Angus Thuermer.

American legend and Exum guide passes away in Thailand  12/20/00
We will all miss Chuck Pratt. Eulogy by Steve Roper.

Exum guides discover a new season in the Alaska Range  12/14/00
Mahoney and House establish autumn water-ice routes.

Exum guides give presentations at AAC Meeting  12/10/00
Slide shows by Armando Menocal and Kim Csizmazia add flavor to this year's meeting.

Exum guides attempt unclimbed peaks in China  11/02/00
Two expeditions with Bunch and Athans make valiant attempts.

New Record on Grand Traverse  9/25/00
Exum guide Garibotti breaks record set by Alex Lowe.

Fall 2000 Cuba Climbing Update  9/22/00
Exum Guide Menocal goes on tour with slide show. Cuba climbing grows.

New Record on Grand Traverse  9/4/00
Exum guide Garibotti breaks record set by Alex Lowe.

Grand Teton Slots Suddenly Come Available. Register!  8/24/00
Unwarranted fears of smoky views spark cancellations.
Dates include September 4 & 5, and more!

Fires and Climbing  8/24/00
How have fires throughout the west effected Teton climbing?

Stephen Koch Spends Two Weeks in Cordillera Blanca  7/9/00
Koch climbs Aguja Nevado III and attempts Caraz I

Exum Guide Jack Tackle Receives Mountaineering Honors  7/4/00
Jack Tackle receives American Alpine Club Underhill Award, its highest honor, and the Italian Genziana Giovane Award for climbing excellence.

Climbing in Cuba  6/29/00
Exum Guides Menocal and Ryan explore Cuba rock and culture.

Ski and Snowboard Expedition to Peru  6/24/00
Saari, Koch, Patridge, Erickson make glisse firsts.

Exum Guides Climb Shipton's Arch  6/10/00
Lightner, Feagin, Newcomb return from China adventure.

Jim Williams Summits Mount Everest  6/5/00
After several previous attempts, Williams leads clients to the top.

Glenn Exum Memorial  4/3/00
Co-founder of Teton guiding, Glenn Exum, dead at age 88.

Alex Lowe Memorial   12/23/99
Beloved Exum Guide killed on Xixapangma.

Antarctic Peninsula Climbing Cruise   10/25/99
Koch, Saari, Erickson confirmed members of expedition.