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Doug Coombs Memorial
Alex Lowe Memorial
Glenn Exum Memorial
Chuck Pratt Memorial
Hans Saari Memorial
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The Exum Guides - 2008
"One of Best Outfitters in the World - 2007"
National Geographic Adventure Magazine
"The Best for Mountaineering"
Outside Magazine
"It is easier to land a Rhodes Scholarship than to hire on at Exum." Outside Magazine, December 2001
"Where you respectively add graduate and PhD training in the art and science of mountaineering."
Couloir Magazine, 2005
Senior Exum Guides
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DAVID BOWERS
Guide for 9 years. Climbs throughout western U.S. Ascents in Nepal, Thailand, and Peru, including Nevado Diablo Mudo and an attempt on Nevado Yerupaja. Professional Ski Patrol, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Ski traverse and peak descents on Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island, Canada.
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AMY BULLARD
Guide for 12 years. Climbs throughout North America, Nepal, Tibet, and France. New routes in Peru including Artesonraju, Millishraju, Jatunriti, and Colquecruz. First ascent of Dos Cuernos- Southern Patagonian Icecap, Argentina. Many Himalayan expeditions including Mustagh Tower in Pakistan, first ascent Melanphulan in Nepal, 6,000 meter peaks in Ladakh, India. Led first unsupported American Women’s expedition to an 8,000 meter peak - Cho Oyu in Tibet. Summitted Everest in 2004 as a guide and climbing double for Universal Studios. Everest guide 2007. Big walls in Yosemite and Zion. Guide for "Chicks with Picks." Khumbu Climbing Instructor. Marmot promotional athlete.
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WESLEY BUNCH
Guide for 13 years. Climbs throughout U.S., including big walls in Yosemite and Zion. Rock climbing in Greece. Ski descents in Tetons. Expeditions in Alaska and to Broad Peak, Karakoram Himalaya. First ascent Bunch-Stewart route on Mt. Hunter, Northeast Face of Mt. Ratz on the Stikine Icecap. Expedition to Jambeyang in the Konka Risumggongba, Sichuan, China. Guide on Mt. McKinley and Mt. Foraker, Alaska. Guided expeditions to Aconcagua and Juncal. Guided ski descents of Chilean volcanoes and in Patagonia. Guide on Cho Oyu, Nepal Himalaya. Expedition to Rio Marta Group, Patagonia. Guide on Mt. Rainier. Backcountry ski guide. Guide for Exum Ski Mountaineering Camps for 10 years.
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DAVE CARMAN
Guide for 31 years. First ascent of South Ridge and Face of Mount Hunter, Alaska. First alpine ascent Patagonia's Cerro Torre, for which he was honored by Lecco Spiders of Italy in 2004. Everest West Expedition, Tibet. AMGA Certified Alpine Guide. Exum Co-Chief Guide.
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PETER CARSE
Guide for 12 years. Numerous expeditions to Nepal Himalaya including Makalu, Ama Dablam, East Kangchung, Naya Kanga, Island Peak, unnamed peaks in Hongu, and first ascent Melanphulan, Hinku Valley. volunteer instructor at Khumbu Climbing School, Phortse. Mustagh Tower, Pakistan. Solo climbs and new routes in Peru including Alpamayo, Huascaran, Artesonraju, Millishraju, Jatunriti, and Colquecruz. First ascent Dos Cuernos, Southern Patagonia Icecap. Big walls in Yosemite and Zion.
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BILL DYER
Guide for 10 years. Extensive climbs in Alaska, Canada, Alps, and U.S., including ascents of Yosemite's El Capitan and over 50 routes at Devils Tower, Wyoming. One-day ascent of northwest face of Half Dome, Yosemite. Many Teton ski traverses. First ski descent CMC Route, Mt. Moran. One-day ascent of Teton Grand Traverse. Numerous first ski descents in western Alaska Range. Six seasons helicopter ski guiding and as lead guide for Chugach Powder Guides, Alaska. Guide on ski descent of Grand Teton - 2004. AMGA Certified Ski Guide.
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MIKE FRIEDMAN
Guide for 22 years. First ascents in Alaska and Canada. Expeditions to Chinese Pamirs and Baffin Island. Mountain safety coordinator for motion pictures. Heli-ski guide in Telluride, Colorado.
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GEORGE GARDNER
Guide for 28 years. Expeditions include southwest face of Kanchenjunga and west face of Hyani Potosi in Bolivia's Cordillera Real. Ski ascents in the Alps and Colorado. Extensive climbing in North America and Himalayas. Sterling College faculty and Program Director for "Semester in the Himalayas." AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.
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ROLANDO GARIBOTTI
Guide for 11 years. Major climbs in Patagonia, including Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy, Cerro Stanhardt, Cerro Murallon, as well as solo ascents of Saint Exupery, Guillaumet, Mermoz and Mariano Moreno. First complete alpine style ascent of Fitz Roy's North Face, and first alpine style ascent of Fitz Roy's Southwest Face. Spectacular speed ascents in Yosemite, including El Capitan's Salathe Wall, Nose, Shield, Lurking Fear, Triple Direct, Aquarian Wall and Sunkist. Speed record holder on the Teton Grand Traverse. Twenty-four hour ascent of the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker. Fifteen-hour link up of Canada's three most famous multi-pitch ice climbs: “Polar Circus,” “Weeping Wall/Weeping Pillar” and “Slipstream.” Various climbs in Jordan and the Alps, including rare winter ascent of "Tempi Moderni" and "The Fish" on the South Face of the Marmolada.
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MATTHEW GOEWERT
Guide for 15 years. Climbs in Yosemite, western U.S., Alps, Nepal, Norway, Alaska, and South and Central America. Ski traverse of Wrangell Range, Alaska. Guide on Aconcagua and Mt. McKinley. Year-round wilderness and mountaineering guide. Avalanche safety instructor. Environmental educator.
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TOM HARGIS
Guide for 29 years. Extensive climbs in Canada and U.S., including five routes on El Capitan and many ascents in the southwest. Expeditions and guiding in Peru, Ecuador, Argentina, and Mount Rainier. Expeditions to Uzbekistan, Aksu and Asan-Usan valleys in Kyrgyzstan. First ascent of northwest ridge of Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan. Only American to summit Gasherbrum IV. Expeditions to Everest and Gasherbrum II. Guided Pik Communism, Pik Lenin, Pik Korzhenevskaya, and Khan Tengri (Kyrgystan). One-day ascents Aconcagua and Pik Korzhenevskaya. Five seasons guiding and teaching up to Grade VI ice and mixed climbing in New Hampshire. AMGA Certified Alpine and Rock Guide. Examiner and instructor in AMGA Rock and Alpine disciplines. Recipient of AMGA Lifetime Guide Achievement Award 2004. Exum Technical Supervisor.
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STEPHEN KOCH
Guide for 15 years. First ascents in Tetons and on mounts McKinley, Hunter, Guillamet, Carstensz Pyramid, and Kilimanjaro. First free ascent of Moonflower Buttress on Mt. Hunter. First winter Grand Traverse, Tetons. First ascent of "Squeeze Box," Grand Teton north face. First snowboard descents of Grand Teton, Middle Teton, South Teton, Mt. Moran, Mt. Owen, Teewinot, Kilimanjaro, the Vinson Massif in Antarctica, the Messner Couloir on McKinley, and others. First descents of Black Ice Couloir on Grand Teton, Northeast Ridge on Mt. Moran, Northeast Snowfields of Mt. Owen, Northwest Couloir on Middle Teton, Southeast Couloir on South Teton, North Face of Mt. Hood, North Face of Buck, West Face of Aiguille d'Argentiere, and others. Ascents of Patagonia's Fitz-Roy, Mt.Kenya's Diamond Couloir (solo), Matterhorn North Face in winter (solo), and La Dame du Lac. First ascent of complete southeast ridge of Cerro Torre, Patagonia. First ascent of "Extreme Emotions," Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia. Five-hour ascent of "Beyond Good and Evil," first free ascent of "There Goes the Neighborhood," and others. Expeditions to Shishapangma, Lhotse, Nuptse South Face, Mt. Everest North Face. Nominated with Marko Prezelj for the 2001 Piolet d' Or Award for ascent of "Light Traveler" on Mt. McKinley. Wyoming State Road Bike Championship Runner Up - 2004. Founder of Avalanche Awareness Foundation. Corporate motivational speaker. Real Estate Agent with Art Hazen Real Estate.
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EVELYN LEES
Guide for 25 years. Climbing and mountaineering in Australia, Bolivia, Peru, New Zealand, Europe, and Canada, with expeditions to Mt. McKinley, Nanga Parbat (Pakistan), and Mt. Everest's North Face. Alpine rock ascents in Sierras, Rockies, Wind Rivers, and Dolomites. Backcountry avalanche forecaster for Utah Avalanche Center for 15 years. AMGA Certified Alpine Guide. Exum Co-Chief Guide.
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PETER LEV
Guide for 47 years. First ascent of the Lev Route on the Underhill Ridge of the Grand Teton, first ascent of the East Buttress of Mt. McKinley in Alaska, and the first ascent of the Direct North Face of Mt. Robson in Canada. Major rock climbs include NW Face of Half Dome, the Integral on El Capitan (2nd ascent) in Yosemite, and the 2nd ascent of the East Face (Daley Route) of Pingora in the Wind Rivers. Veteran of seven Himalayan expeditions including Dhaulagiri, Nanda Devi, Chulu, Nun, and Pik Lenin in Kyrgyzstan Pamirs. Guide at Black Hills and Needles, South Dakota (please see exumblackhills.com. AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.
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KEVIN MAHONEY
Guide for 13 years. Expeditions to Alaska, British Columbia, and Garhwal Himalaya. First ascents of ice and alpine routes in New Hampshire, Colorado, and Alaska. First ascent of Southeast Face of Moose's Tooth, and "Common Knowledge" on Washburn Face of Mt. McKinley, Alaska Range. Nominated for the 2004 Piolet d' Or Award for ascent of “Arctic Rage” on Moose’s Tooth. AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide.
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KENT McBRIDE
Guide for 9 years. Skiing and climbing in Tetons and western U.S., including four routes on El Capitan. First ski descent CMC Route on Mount Moran. Climbing and skiing in Alaska, Canada, Chile, Argentina, Bolivia, and Patagonia. Three winters skiing and climbing in Chamonix and La Grave, France. Expedition to Kun Lun Range, Tibet. Lead guide, Valdez Heli-Ski Guides, Valdez, Alaska. Ski guide with Jackson Hole Alpine Guides at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. UIAGM certified mountain guide.
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FORREST McCARTHY
Guide for 14 years. Climbs and guided trips throughout North America including Canadian Rockies and Alaska. Veteran guide on Mt. McKinley and Aconcagua. Over 10 scientific and climbing expeditions to Antarctica, including the Vinson Massif, Central Plateau, South Pole, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Discovery, the Beardmore Glacier, Dry Valleys, and B-15 (the world’s largest iceberg). Extensive climbing in New Zealand, including the Hooker Face on Mt. Cook and multiple ascents of Mt. Aspiring. Climbing in the Australian Outback, volcanoes of Ecuador, and the Annapurna and Khumbu regions of Nepal. Ski descents and traverses in Tetons, Wind Rivers, and throughout the Greater Yellowstone region. Field biologist specializing in alpine ecology and rare carnivores.
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RODRIGO MUJICA
Guide for 23 years. Guided 24 expeditions to Denali and 28 expeditions to Aconcagua. Expeditions to Xixabangma and Cho Oyu in the Himalaya. Climbs in Patagonia include North and Central Towers of Paine, Agujas Guillaumet and Poincenot, Cerro Torre attempts. Patagonian Ice Cap explorations including first east-west traverse of northern Ice Cap. First ascents in Antarctica, Andes, and Alaska. Speed ascents of Denali, Aconcagua, Juncal. Guide in Ellsworth Mountains and Mt. Vinson in Antarctica. Extensive climbs and guiding in Alps, including Frendo Spur and Grand Jorasses. Climbs in Yosemite. Director and Founder of Aventuras Patagonicas and Heliskiguides.com. UIAGM/IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide.
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MARK NEWCOMB
Guide for 18 years. Climbs in western U.S., Tetons, Nepal, Mt. McKinley's Cassin Ridge, Xixabangma, Hidden Peak, and Kun Lun expeditions. First ski descents of various extreme Teton routes. Ski guide in Alaska, France, and U.S. Guide on Mt. McKinley and Geladaintong, Tibet. Watson Fellow in China. Exploratory climb of Shipton's Arch, Xingjiang, China. Exploratory climbs in northeast China, including Geladaintong, Sepu Kangri, and Charagil. Marmot Mountain Ltd. Design Board. Named by Powder Magazine in 2003 as one of "Six Best Ski Mountaineers." Co-guide on first guided ski descent of Grand Teton - 2004.
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ROD NEWCOMB
Guide for 44 years. First ascent East Buttress of Mt. McKinley and ski ascent of Mount Silverthrone in Alaska. Ascents in Nepal Himalaya. Avalanche researcher and consultant. Founder and Director of American Avalanche Institute. Recipient in 2004 of Honorary Membership by the American Avalanche Association, the highest honor given to avalanche researchers and practitioners.
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JIM NIGRO
Guide for 12 years. Climbs throughout U.S. Many first ascents in Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado, and in Utah desert. Expeditions to Peru, Nepal, and Baffin Island. Guide on Mt. McKinley. Climbs in Mexico, New Zealand, Australia, Tasmania, Argentina, and Indonesia.
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BRENDAN O'NEILL
Guide for 6 years. Ascents of big walls in Zion and Yosemite, including El Capitan in one day. Climbs in the Alps and U.S., including new routes in the Teton Range. Redpoint ascent of 5.13. Ski descents in U.S., Alps, Peru, and Bolivia, including Huascarán Sur, and first descents of Palomani Grande (18,927 feet) and Illampu (20,892 feet). Many first ski descents in Teton Range and descents in Sierra Nevada. Two-time North American ski-mountaineering champion. Multiple randonee race winner and 2003 Life-Link/Dynafit Randonee Rally series winner. U.S. representaive in two Ski-alpinism World Championships and World Cup circuit. Winner of first annual Lifelink/Dynafit Randonee Rally, Jackson Hole.
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NAT PATRIDGE
Guide for 14 years. Rock climbs in U.S. Steep ski descents in Tetons, Beartooths, Absaroka, Alps, and Peru. Expeditions to Kenya, Tanzania, Peru, and Ecuador. Former director of Jackson Hole Alpine Guides, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Avalanche forecaster and guide for High Mountain Heli-Skiing, Jackson Hole and Valdez Heli-Ski Guides, Alaska.
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AL READ
Guide for 46 years. First ascents in Tetons and of East Buttress of Mt. McKinley. Leader of first ascent expeditions in Nepal of Gaurishankar and Cholatse. Leader l980 Minya Konka Expedition in China. Member l969 American Dhaulagiri Expedition (Nepal), Everest North Ridge Expedition (Tibet) - 1986. Former U.S. Foreign Service Officer. Managing Director of Asia's foremost mountaineering outfitter, Nepal 1975-1984. Climbs in Iran and Alps. Co-leader of Shackleton Traverse, South Georgia Island - 2000. Co-Founder and Vice Chairman of Geographic Expeditions. Former Director of the American Alpine Club. Board member of Avalanche Awareness Educational Fund. Former Board Member of AMGA. Contributing author for Upward Bound: Nine Original Accounts of How Business Leaders Reached Their Summits. Named to Outside Magazine's "A Team" - one of 25 "Best at Outdoor Adventure Professions" - 2001. AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.
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MIKE RUTH
Guide for 13 years. Climbs in western U.S., Alaska. Climbs on El Capitan, desert towers, and big walls. Climbs in Canada including North Face of Mt. Robson. Extensive ice climbs and ski mountaineering in New Zealand. First ascents in Zion. Patrol Ranger on Mt. McKinley.
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CHRISTIAN SANTELICES
Guide for 17 years. Climbs in the Alps, Pyrenees, and Mexico. Guide on El Capitan and Half Dome. Expeditions in Patagonia, including the Ice Cap, Cerro Torre, Fortaleza, Central Tower of Paine. First ascents on Cerro Escudo and Torre Central. Skiing and snowboarding in Alaska and Morocco. Guided climbs in the Drakensberg of South Africa. Climbed 20 of Steck and Roper's 50 Classic Climbs of North America in 20 days. Nike ACG footwear and apparel design advisory board. Professional Nike ACG athlete. AMGA Certified Rock Guide.
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TOM SCIOLINO
Guide for 25 years. Eleven ascents Yosemite's El Capitan. Ascents of north faces of Europe's Eiger, Dru, Grand Jorasses, Triolet Direct, and Mt. Blanc. Guide on Alpamayo and Huascarán, Peru. Fifteen ascents of Diamond on Longs Peak and many ascents in Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado. Ascents in Canada, Canyonlands, and Nepal.
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JACK TACKLE
Guide for 29 years. First ascent of Mt. McKinley's Isis face, Mt. Hunter's Diamond Arete, Foraker's Viper Ridge, Mt. Barille's Cobra Pillar. Canadian Coast Range ascents. Mt. Siguniang, China. Mt. Everest West Expedition. Expeditions to Biafo Spires, Uzam Braak, and Biantha Braak (Ogre), in Pakistan. Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash in Peru. First ascent Elevator Shaft, Mt. Johnson, Alaska. North Face Mt. Kennedy, Yukon. Guide on Mt. McKinley. Sales representative for Vasque Footware and Black Diamond. Former Technical consultant for Vasque Footware. Former Director, American Alpine Club. Recipient of the American Alpine Club's coveted Underhill Award for climbing achievement - 1999 and Trento Film Festival and Italian Alpine Club award, "Genziana Giovanne"-1999. Recipient of AAC's Sowles Award - 2003. AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.
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CINDY TOLLE
Guide for 15 years. First ascents Yosemite, Canada, Alaska, Needles, and Rockies. Climbs in Nepal, India, Bolivia, and Mexico. Guided "El Gigante" in Mexico and established fist ascent of "Hombre en Fuego" - 2003. GPS topographer.
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THOMAS TURIANO
Guide for 20 years. Climbing throughout North America. Teton first ascents. Major ski descents of Teton peaks. Ascents of over 400 different mountains in Greater Yellowstone region. Numerous ski and packrafting traverses of the Greater Yellowstone area. Backcountry ski guide and instructor. Exum web site author. Author of of two definitive books on ski mountaineering and mountaineering: Teton Skiing: A History and Guide and award-winning Select Peaks of Greater Yellowstone: A Mountaineering History and Guide. Professional finger-style guitarist.
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JACK TURNER
Guide for 38 years. Pioneer climbing in Colorado and extensive climbing in Yosemite and the Tetons. Veteran of 40 expeditions and treks in Pakistan, Peru, Nepal, China, Tibet, and India. Minya Konka Expedition, China. AMGA Certified Alpine Guide. Author of celebrated environmental works The Abstract Wild, Teewinot, A Year in the Tetons, and the forthcoming Travels in the Greater Yellowstone. Exum Mountain Guides Chief Guide and Corporate President.
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JIM WILLIAMS
Guide for 40 years. First ascent of Rudshe Konka, China - 1982. Expeditions to Chile, Peru, Africa, Bhutan, China, India, Nepal, and Tibet. Explorations in Shagskam region, Xinjiang, China, K2, northern Karakorum. Co-leader 1989 Ski Expedition to South Pole. Co-leader Patagonian Ice Cap Traverse, 1991. Guide on Mt. Everest, Nupste, Lhotse, Mt. McKinley, Ama Dablam, Carstenz Pyramid, Elbrus, and Aconcagua. Reached summit of Mt. Everest in 2000 with clients. Co-leader of Shackleton Traverse, South Georgia Island - 2000. First person to have successfully guided all "Seven Summits" in less than one year. Recipient of National Park Service Search and Rescue Award – 2003. Named member in 2005 of “Durable Dozen" in Best Life Magazine (along with Ullyses Grant, Ernest Shakleton, Chuck Yeager, and others) for Seven Summits guiding achievement. AMGA Board of Directors for 5 years. AMGA Certified Alpine and Rock Guide.
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RICK WYATT
Guide for 33 years. Ascents in Yosemite, Utah, Canada, Europe. Expeditions to Mt. McKinley, Alpamayo, Huascarán, Bolivian Andes, Masherbrum, Nanga Parbat, Mt. Everest, Tian Shan, Krygyzstan. First descent Grand Teton on cross-country skis. Former lead avalanche forecaster - Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. Professional avalanche consultant and educator. Film and stunt rigger. AMGA Certified Alpine Guide. American Avalanche Association Avalanche Instructor.
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Exum Guides |
MICHAEL ABBEY
Guide for 5 years. Extensive rock and alpine climbing throughout North America. First ascents of Grade V rock and ice climbs in Montana. Rock climbing in France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Mexico, Thailand, and Hong Kong. Steep ski descents in the French Alps. Waterfall ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, California, France, and Switzerland. Winter ascents of the north face of Les Droites, and the Direct Supercouloir on Mont Blanc. Numerous Teton ascents including the Grand Traverse in 14 hours and the Direct South Buttress of Mt. Moran.
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CHRIS BASSETT
Guide for 6 years. Extensive climbing in Colorado. Speed ascents include multiple single day ascents of big walls in Zion and Yosemite. Ascents in New Hampshire, Maine, Vermont, the Shawangunks, Devils Tower, Freemont Canyon, the Utah desert, Red Rocks, the Tetons, and Wind Rivers. First ascents in Alaska. Recipient of the Lyman-Spitzer Grant.
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TOM BENNETT
Guide for 13 years. Climbed and skied extensively in Western U.S., Alaska, Canadian Rockies, New England, and the Alps. Expeditions to Nepal and South America. Nineteen years as a ski guide/ski instructor at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Ski descents of many Teton peaks including Grand Teton.
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EDWIN "BEAN" BOWERS
Guide for 14 years. Climbs throughout western U.S, Yosemite, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Zion, Mexico, Canada, and Alaska. Expeditions on Mt. McKinely, Mt. St Elias, and Mt. Logan. Yosemite big walls in a day include the Nose and Lurking Fear. Free climbs to grade V 5.12b. Ascents in Patagonia, including first integral free ascent of Southwest Face of Fitzroy, Southwest Ridge on Cerro Torre; new routes on Aguja St Exupery, Aguja Rafael, Aguja Desmochada, and hardest free climb in Torre Valley - "El Facon" V 5.12. Guide on Northern Patagonian Ice Cap and in Antarctica. Technical consultant for mountain films.
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BRIAN BRECHWALD
Guide for 7 years. Climbs in the Western U.S. and European Alps. Ski descents in the Wasatch and Tetons. Ski guide, rock guide, and avalanche course instructor for Exum Utah Mountain Adventures. AIARE certified avalanche course instructor. Ski guide for the Interconnect Ski Tour in the Wasatch. Director of outdoor leadership challenges for corporate teams with Wasatch Adventure Consultants. Advisor and guide for Winter at Westminster education program.
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GARY FALK
Guide for 3 years. Extensive climbing in Western U.S., including multiple ascents of El Capitan, walls in Zion, and towers in southwestern Utah. Half-day ascent of The Nose on El Capitan (14 hours). AMGA Certified Rock Guide.
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BEN GILMORE
Guide for 11 years. Expeditions to Alaska, Mt. Waddington (Canadian Rockies), Garhwal Himalaya, and Patagonia. First ascents in Alaska, New Hampshire, Patagonia, Newfoundland, and Arizona. First ascent of Southeast Face of Moose's Tooth, and "Common Knowledge" on Washburn Face of Mt. McKinley, Alaska Range. 2004 Muggs Stump grant for "Arctic Rage." Nominated for the 2004 Piolet d' Or Award for first ascent of “Arctic Rage” on Moose’s Tooth. Second ascents of "Czech Direct" on Mt. McKinley, "Wall of Shadows" on Mt. Hunter, and "Snow Patrol" on Mt. Dickey. AMGA certified Rock and Alpine Guide.
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BRIAN HARDER
Guide for 7 years. Climbs throughout U.S. Expeditions to New Zealand, Nepal, Ecuador, Argentina, and Chile. Seven trips to the Alaska Range, including three Mt. McKinley expeditions and the west face of Mt. Huntington. Expedition to Shishapangma. Successful ascents of Mt. McKinley, Ama Dablam, Island Peak, Lobuche East, Chimboraso, Cotopaxi, Antisana, and Aconcagua. First ascents in Sedona, Arizona and northern Patagonia. Expedition to Shishapangma. Eleven-hour solo of the Grand Traverse in the Tetons. Board certified Physician Assistant.
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ANGELA HAWSE
Guide for 22 years. Climbs throughout the U.S., Canada, and South America. Big walls in Yosemite and Zion. Expeditions to Pakistan, Nepal, India's Garwhal Himalaya, and climbs in Patagonia. Arctic ski traverse of Lapland (Sweden to Norway). Deputy Leader of successful Mt. Everest expedition. Reached South Summit of Mt. Everest (28,782 ft). Guide on five Mt. McKinley expeditions. Guide on Carstenz Pyramid (highest peak in Australasia). Led and guided successful all-women's Ama Dablam expedition (Nepal). Guide for expeditions and treks in Nepal, Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Ecuador, Canada, and Alaska. Guide on Mt. McKinley. Guides for Women That Rock, Chicks with Picks, Chicks on Cracks, and Montrail Splitter Camps. Masters Degree in International Mountain Conservation. Marmot Professional Athlete. AMGA Director. AMGA Certified Rock Guide.
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CALVIN HEBERT
Guide for 9 years. Extensive climbing in the Cascades and Alaska, including Mt. Rainier and Mt. McKinley. First ascents in the Ruth Gorge, Kichatna Mountains, Revelation Mountains, and Heart Mountains of Alaska. First ascents on the north faces of Mt. Hunter and Grand Teton. Climbs and first ascents throughout Colorado and Utah including Zion. Technical canyoneering in Utah. Rigger and guide for film productions. Nordic ski instructor.
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ERIC KNOFF
Guide for 4 years. Climbs in Alaska, U.S., and Mexico, including difficult free ascents. Guide on Mt. Rainier and Mt. McKinley. Professional ski patrolman.
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BILL LIBERATORE
Guide for 6 years. Climbs in western U.S. and Canada. First ascents in Rocky Mountain National Park. Expeditions to Peruvian Andes, Khumbu region of Nepal, and northern Canada. Former member of Search and Rescue in Rocky Mountain National Park. AMGA Certified Rock Guide.
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CARA LIBERATORE
Guide for 5 years. Climbs throughout western U.S. and Canada. Expeditions to Yukon and Cordillera Blanca (Peru). Member of all-women's expedition to Cho Oyu in Tibet. Founder of "Expedition Inspiration," a guided climb of Grand Teton to raise funds and awareness for breast cancer research.
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Molly Loomis
Guide for 9 years. Climbing, mountaineering, back-country skiing, and guiding throughout North America, Argentina, Ecuador, and Antarctica, including expeditions on Mt. McKinley, Aconcagua, and Mt. Vinson. First ascents and ski descents in Kamchatka, Russia, Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstsan, and the Genyen Massif, China. Multiple trips into the Alaska Range and Juneau Icefield. Big wall climbing in Zion National Park, and a Trans-Pacific sailing passage. Author of articles in numerous climbing publications and co-author of Climbing: Self Rescue. Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations.
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SCOTT McGEE
Guide for 17 years. Guided trips in Central and North Cascades, Sierra Nevada, Beartooths, Wind Rivers, and Tetons. Expeditions to Central Andes with first Telemark descent of La Parva. Specializing in telemark ski and instruction, ski mountaineering, and long-distance backcountry skate ski mountain touring, with 20 distinct Teton Traverses on light gear. Member of the national PSIA Nordic Team. Training Manager for Jackson Hole Mountain Sports School.
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PATRICK ORMOND
Guide for 6 years. Climbing throughout North America including Yosemite, Squamish, Alaska, Utah, and Cascades. Ascent of Mt. McKinley. Rock climbing of extreme difficulty. Steep ski descents in the Wasatch. Avalanche instructor and ski guide. Rigger and safety coordinator for film productions.
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BART PAULL
Guide for 6 years. Climbs in the U.S., Canada, Argentina, Bolivia, Ecuador, Patagonia, France, Italy, and Nepal. Winter ascents in the French Alps, including Frendo Spur, north face of the Gran Charmoz and "Beyond Good and Evil." Six ascents of El Capitan, the first at age 15. Extensive waterfall ice climbing in Canada and New England. Four expeditions to Alaska, including McKinley's Cassin Ridge and west face of Mt. Huntington. First Ascents in the Nepal Himalaya, New England, and Cascades. Ski mountaineering in U.S., Canada, France, and Italy. Guide on Aconcagua. Climbs in Patagonia. Contributor to major climbing periodicals. AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine guide.
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MIKE POBORSKY
Guide for 8 years. Extensive climbing and skiing throughout North America and Europe. Many ascents in Seneca, Shawangunks, New England, Eldorado Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park, Yosemite, Red Rocks, Tetons, and Pennine Alps of Switzerland. Ski descents in the coastal and interior ranges of British Columbia, Sierras, Tetons, Cascades, Wasatch, and Colorado. Professional avalanche consultant and educator. Professional ski patroller. AMGA Certified Rock Guide.
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BRIAN PRAX
Guide for 8 years. Alpine rock, ice, and big wall climbs in U.S. and Canada. Expeditions to Mt. McKinley including Cassin Ridge and solo ascent of upper West Rib. Solo ascent of Direct Northwest Face of Cho Oyu in Tibet.
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KEVIN PUSEY
Guide for 16 years. Alpine and sport routes throughout North America. First ascents in Patagonia, including 75-day Northern Ice Cap expedition. Ascents of Mt. Cook and Mt. Aspiring in New Zealand. Ascents and treks in Alaska's Chugach Range, Little Switzerland, The Ramparts, and Mount Hayes region. Ascent of Canadian Route on Mt. McKinley's Wickersham Wall. Heli-ski guide, Valdez, Alaska. Ski descents in Canada, Alaska, and the Rockies. NOLS mountaineering instructor. Antarctic Research Expedition Safety Officer - 1999. Mountaineering Specialist with Jackson Hole Ski Patrol. Backcountry Gourmet Chef.
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BRENTON REAGAN
Guide for 7 years. Mountaineering throughout U.S., including ascents and ski descents in Tetons and Wind Rivers. Ascents in Canadian Rockies. Expedition to Mt. McKinley. Expedition to Khan Tengri, Tien-Shan in Kazakhstan. First ascent "El Pilar" and "Cerro Liso," Mexico. Member 2003 Khumbu Exploratory Expedition. First Ascent Peak 5,880, Khumbu, Nepal. Guide in Nepal. Board of Directors Tutuaca Mountain Center, Mexico. Recipient Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund Grant. Expedition to Rio Marta Group, Northern Chilean Patagonia, 2006.
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KIM SPRINGER
Guide for 17 years. Climbs throughout the Tetons, Cascades, and Olympics. Trek leader in Nepal, Siberia, and Mongolia. Cross-country racer and coach. Natural history and trek guide.
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DAN STARR
Guide for 5 years. Rock, ice, and alpine climbs in Gallatin Range, Absaroka Range, North Cascades, Sierra Nevada, Yosemite, Zion, Canyonlands, and Colorado's South Platte. Ski descents of Mt. Hood and in the Tetons, including Grand Teton, Middle Teton, and Mt. Moran. Ski descents in Colorado, Chugach Range, and Selkirk Range. Trekking and climbing expedition to Mt. Kenya and Kilimanjaro. Ascent of Ama Dablam - 2004. Assistant Director of the Snow King Professional Ski Patrol.
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ANDY TYSON
Guide for 17 years. Climbing and guiding throughout North America, Patagonia, Kyrgyzstan, India, Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Tibet, China, Japan, South Korea, and Antarctica. First ascents in the Patagonian Andes, China, and Wrangell Mountains of Alaska. Traverse of the Campo de Hielo Norte, Patagonia. Expeditions include the Darwin Range in Tierra Del Fuego, Arunachal Pradesh in India, and Genyen Range in China. Ascent of Cho Oyu, Tibet, and Mount Vinson, Antarctica. Montrail Footwear climbing ambassador. Sailing passages include Trans-Atlantic, Trans-Pacific, and Pacific Isles. Co-Author of Glacier Mountaineering: The Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue and Climbing: Self Rescue Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations.
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JEFF WITT
Guide for 5 years. Climbs throughout U.S. and Europe. Ascents include 17 of Steck and Roper's Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Seven big wall routes in Yomemite and Zion. Many Alpine classics in France, Switzerland, Italy, and Scotland. Backcountry skier.
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Guest Guides |
TYSON BRADLEY
Guide for 13 years. First ski descents of Wickersham Wall on Mt. McKinley and Sultana Ridge on Mt. Foraker. Expedition to Abruzzi Ridge of Mt. St. Elias. Ascent of Carpe Ridge of Mt. Fairweather. Guide on Mt. Hood for 7 years. Guide on Mt. McKinley. Expeditions to Khan Tengri and Pobeda (first ski descent), Kyrgyzstan. Hispar-Biafo traverse on skis (Pakistan), Muztagh Ata, China. Ski descents of Huascarán Sur and Pisco, Peru. Ski guide for Wasatch Powderbird Guides, Utah.
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JOHN BRAGG
Guide for 14 years. Climbing in Yosemite, Boulder, Shawangunks, New Hampshire, France, Italy. Ascents in the Patagonian Andes of Argentina, Cordillera Blanca of Peru, Alaska Range, and French Alps. Alpine ski touring in the Berner Oberland, Stubai Alps, and French Alps. Ice climbing in New England and Utah. First free ascents in the Shawangunks, Eldorado Canyon, and Yosemite. Some climbs were among the first 5.12 routes in the U.S. Ascent of the Salathe Wall in Yosemite. First ascents of extreme ice routes. First ascent of Torre Egger, Patagonia. First American ascent and first alpine style ascent of Cerro Torre, Patagonia. Expedition to Cerro Kruger, Patagonia. Early explorations of the Chinese Karakoram.
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GREG COLLINS
Guide for 25 years. Over 240 Grand Teton ascents via 30 different routes. Grand Teton ascents include winter ascents of the Direct North Face, North Ridge, and the first ascent of the Grand's hardest free route, the Golden Pillar. Many Tetons ski descents, including the first descent of the Grand's East Ridge Chockstone Couloir, as well as guided ski descents of the Grand. Extensive climbing and guiding in the Wind River Mountains. Extensive climbing and guiding in Alaska, including 14 ascents of Mt. McKinley via five different routes, a one-day ski descent of the Messner Couloir, and guided ascents of the north side and West Rib. Solo ascent to 8200 meters on K2 in the Himalaya. First ascents of the West Face of Cholatse and the West Edge of Lupilla Brakk. Widely considered one of Northern Rockies' top rock climbers with numerous first ascents at the highest degree of difficulty in the region. Author of Lander Rock. Level 3 Avalanche Course Instructor. AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide.
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SUSAN DETWEILER
Guide for 16 years. Climbs throughout western U.S. and Canada and Australia, including big walls in
Yosemite, East Africa, Nepal and first ascents in Chile. Guide on Mt. McKinley, Aconcagua and other
Andean summits, Kilimanjaro, and in the Cascades.Numerous winter expeditions in Colorado. Avalanche
awareness instructor, naturalist, year-round wilderness and mountaineering educator. Field Safety
Instructor for U.S. Antarctic Program. AMGA Certified Rock Instructor.
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JULIE FAURE
Guide for 10 years. Climbs in Swiss and French Alps. Expeditions to Mt. McKinley and Mt. St. Elias in Alaska, and Khan Tengri and Pobeda in Kyrgyzstan. First ski descent Mt. Foraker's Sultana Ridge. Guide on Mt. McKinley. Two ascents of Yosemite's El Capitan. Ascent of Hallucinogen Wall, Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Backcountry ski guide, rock and ice guide for Exum Utah Mountain Adventures. Avalanche course instructor for American Avalanche Institute and Utah Avalanche Center.
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NANCY FEAGIN
Guide for 16 years. Ascents of Mt. McKinley, Mt. Everest, and Aconcagua. One-day ascents of El Capitan's Nose and Salathe routes. Climbed 20 of Steck and Roper's 50 Classic Climbs of North America in 20 days. Numerous 5.13 ascents. Instructor for women's climbing seminars throughout U.S. Featured in many climbing related television ads. Former film stunt double. Exploratory climb of Shipton's Arch, Xingjiang, China. Star of IMAX film, Extreme.
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JEFF FOOTT
Guide for 20 years. Pioneer climbing in Yosemite, first one day ascent of Half Dome. First mountain rescue ranger at Yosemite. First ascent of Mitre Face in New Zealand. Expeditions to Antarctica, Ulag Muztag and Minya Konka in China. Professional wildlife cinematographer and still photographer. Owner of Jeff Foott Productions. Certified AMGA Alpine Guide.
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KEN JERN
Guide for 29 years. Mountaineering and rock ascents in Cascades, Yosemite, and Wind Rivers. Canadian ice climbs. Expeditions to Mt. McKinley and Peruvian Andes. Ski instructor. Proprietor of Wildflower Inn Bed & Breakfast, Jackson Hole.
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HANS JOHNSTONE
Guide for 10 years. Climbs in Tetons, Wind Rivers, Yosemite. First winter ascent Mount Moran South Buttress. Mt. McKinley's Cassin Ridge. Kun Lun expedition, Tibet. Expedition to South Buttress of the Ogre (Biantha Braak) in Pakistan. Guide on Mt. McKinley. Member 1988 Nordic Combined Olympic Team. Five years on U.S. National Ski Team. First ski descents of Hossack-MacGowan Couloir and East Ridge, Grand Teton. Heliski Guide - Valdez, Alaska. Proprietor of Alpine House Bed & Breakfast, Jackson Hole.
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JOE KELSEY
Guide for 22 years. Climbs in Shawangunks, Yosemite, Canadian Rockies. Twenty-one first ascents in Wind Rivers. Author of Climbing and Hiking in the Wind River Mountains and Wyoming's Wind River Range.
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TOM LYMAN
Guide for 21 years. Expeditions to Alaska, Yukon, Peru, Himalaya, Antarctica, and Bolivia. Former Director of Eastern Mountain Sports Climbing School. GPS cartographer and engineer.
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RON MATOUS
Guide for 23 years. Spectacular record in the Alps, including the North Face of the Eiger. Expeditions to Huandoy and Huascarán. Expeditions include Masherbrum, Makalu, Nanga Parbat, Gyachung Kang, and Manaslu. Guide on Mt. McKinley and Aconcagua, and in Asia and New Zealand. Hang glider pilot. AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.
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LIZ OAKES
Guide for 6 years. Extensive climbing in the Colorado Rockies. Ski mountaineering in Chamonix, including the Glacier Rond and Couloir du Cosmiques. Ski mountaineering in La Grave, including the Pan de Rideau and the Polichinele. Ski descent of the Fuhrer Finger on Mt. Rainier. Ski descents in Alaska's Chugach Range. Ski expedition to Shishapangma, Tibet. Rock climbing in Yosemite and Squamish, British Columbia. One-day ascent of the Cathedral Traverse, Tetons. Expeditions to Ama Dablam in Nepal and Junpono in Sikkim, India.
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DAVE RYAN
Guide for 12 years. Extensive climbs in western U.S., including 10 big walls in Yosemite and Zion. Twenty-six first ascents in Yosemite, central Sierras, and Cuba's Viñales valley. Expeditions to Aconcagua and Mt. McKinley. Extended ski tours in Alps, Cascades, British Columbia, Sierras, and Tetons. Telemark ski descents of seven Cascade volcanoes including Rainier, Hood, Adams, and Shasta.
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MILES SMART
Guide for 7 years. Extensive climbing in the Cascades, Yosemite, Canadian Rockies, Patagonia, France, Switzerland, Nepal, Thailand, and Pakistan. Eighteen ascents of El Capitan. Speed climbing records on several Grade IV big walls. First ascent of El Capitan A5 route. Expeditions to Ama Dablam, Shishapangma, Trango Towers, Cerro Torre, and Fitzroy. Heli-ski guide in Alaska, Italy, and Switzerland. Ski mountaineering in the Chugach Range of Alaska, Cascades of Washington State, French and Swiss Alps, and the Tibetan Himalaya. Ski guide in LaGrave, France. AMGA instructor and examiner. Marmot Athlete/Design Board member and Gore Mountaineering Council member. 2004 recipient of AMGA "Guide of the Year" award. UIAGM/IFMGA certified mountain guide.
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ARMANDO MENOCAL
Guest guide at Exum for 10 years. Outside magazine gave this thumbnail of Armando Menocal: “a world-class Wyoming climber who’s been helping the Cuban rock-climbing community get off the ground.” 38 years of climbing, with first ascents in Yosemite and Sierra Nevada and climbs in Asia, Africa, and South America. Active climber, white-water and sea kayaker, ski mountaineer, mountain-biker, and mountain runner. Pioneer in starting, and still active in development of climbing gyms. Founder of The Access Fund, which works to keep climbing areas open and protect the mountain environment, and the largest climbing organization in America. Spearheading introduction of climbing and guiding in Cuba www.CubaClimbing.com.
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JED WILLIAMSON
Guide for 36 years. First ascents in Canada, Alaska, Mexico, China. Expeditions include Everest, Minya Konka, Pik Lenin, Mt. McKinley. Former President of American Alpine Club, current Chair of Safety Committee and Editor of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Board of Trustees - National Outdoor Leadership School and Student Conservation Association. Former President of Sterling College. AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.
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