Reaching the summit of a major Teton peak in winter requires a combination of stamina, mountaineering skills, and plain old luck. The reward comes in the form of an on-the-edge experience without the crowds of summer, on routes that may not be climbed more than once in a season.
From the North Ridge of the Grand to the easier gullies and ridges of the lower peaks, Exum guides have been on many of the first winter ascents in the range. With Exum's experience in winter mountaineering all over the world, we can help you choose a goal that's appropriate for your experience level.
Click to learn more...
Click to go back...
Most technical winter ascents in the Tetons require at least two days, while the Grand usually requires two nights out. More difficult or distant routes may require even more.
Participants should be experienced with rope management and belaying on both ice and rock. Conditions may dictate the use of ice as well as rock gear. Approaches and descents are best done on skis. High avalanche hazard may require alternate route choices or dates. A maximum of two clients per guide allow us to move quickly and safely through technical terrain. These climbs are conducted on a privately scheduled basis only.
Rates
High Peaks (Grand Teton, Mt Owen, Mt Moran) (3 days) (food, camping and climbing equipment included): $1,180 for one, $770/person for two
All other peaks: $310/day, $225/person/day for two, $190/person/day for three (food, camping and climbing equipment included)
Here
are some suggested climbs:
MIDDLE or SOUTH TETON: These easiest of the high peaks are usually approached from a camp in Garnet Canyon, with the second day involving steep, hard snow as well as a long descent to the valley.
BUCK MOUNTAIN : The northeast ridge of this southernmost of the high peaks is an Alaskan-style knife-edge in winter with spectacular exposure and minimal objective hazard. Descent via the same route avoids the avalanche hazard of the east face.
CLOUDVEIL DOME or NEZ PERCE: Often more rock than snow or ice, the fourth-class routes of summer become serious climbs in winter conditions.
GRAND TETON: While this peak is usually everyone's first choice for a winter prize, its greater difficulty and vertical relief demand experience in a variety of conditions as well as exceptional fitness. In most cases we will require clients to have done an easier ascent with us before tackling the Grand. The frigid and rime-caked Owen-Spalding route is the "standard" in winter, requiring two rappels and long sections of downclimbing on descent.
Expedition-style trips into the Wind River Range also are available for the experienced winter mountaineer.
 |
|
           
|