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Exum Mountain Guides - 307.733.2297
PO Box 56 - Moose, WY 83012
Alex Lowe Memorial
Glenn Exum Memorial
Chuck Pratt Memorial
Hans Saari Memorial
 
The Exum Guides
Winter 2006-2007

"The Best for Mountaineering"
Outside Magazine

"It is easier to land a Rhodes Scholarship than to hire on at Exum."
Outside Magazine, December 2001

"If you want to climb with the best, climb with Exum."
David Breashears. Cinematographer, Producer, and Director of the Everest IMAX film.


TOM BENNETT Guide for 12 years. Climbed and skied extensively in Western U.S., Alaska, Canadian Rockies, New England, and the Alps. Expeditions to Nepal and South America. Nineteen years as a ski guide/ski instructor at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Ski descents of many Teton peaks including Grand Teton.

DAVID BOWERS Guide for 8 years. Climbs throughout western U.S. Ascents in Nepal, Thailand, and Peru, including Nevado Diablo Mudo and an attempt on Nevado Yerupaja. Professional Ski Patrol, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Ski traverse and peak descents on Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island, Canada.

WESLEY BUNCH Guide for 12 years. Climbs throughout U.S., including big walls in Yosemite and Zion. Ski descents in Tetons. Expeditions in Alaska and to Broad Peak, Karakoram Himalaya. First ascent Bunch/Stewart route on Mt. Hunter, Northeast Face Mt. Ratz, Stikine Icecap. Expedition to Jambeyang in the Konka Risumggongba, Sichuan, China. Guide on Mt. McKinley, Aconcagua, and Juncal. Backcountry ski guide.

BILL DYER Guide for 8 years. Extensive climbs in Alaska, Canada, Alps, and U.S., including ascents of Yosemite's El Capitan and over 50 routes at Devils Tower, Wyoming. One-day ascent of northwest face of Half Dome, Yosemite. Many Teton ski traverses. First ski descent CMC Route, Mt. Moran. One-day ascent of Teton Grand Traverse. Six seasons helicopter ski guiding in Chugach Range, Alaska. Guide on ski descent of Grand Teton - 2004.

MATTHEW GOEWERT Guide for 14 years. Climbs in Yosemite, western U.S., Alps, Nepal, Norway, Alaska and South and Central America. Ski traverse of Wrangell Range, Alaska. Guide on Aconcagua and Mt. McKinley. Year-round wilderness and mountaineering guide. Avalanche safety instructor. Environmental educator.

TOM HARGIS Guide for 28 years. Extensive climbs in Canada and U.S., including five routes on El Capitan and many ascents in the southwest. Expeditions and guiding in Peru, Ecuador, Argentina, and Mount Rainier. Expeditions to Uzbekistan, Aksu and Asan-Usan valleys in Kyrgyzstan. First ascent of northwest ridge of Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan. Only American to summit Gasherbrum IV. Expeditions to Everest and Gasherbrum II. Guided Pik Communism, Pik Lenin, Pik Korzhenevskaya, and Khan Tengri. One-day ascents Aconcagua and Pik Korzhenevskaya. Five seasons guiding and teaching up to Grade VI ice and mixed climbing in New Hampshire. AMGA Certified Alpine and Rock Guide. Examiner and instructor in AMGA Rock and Alpine disciplines. Recipient of AMGA Lifetime Guide Achievement Award 2004. Exum Technical Supervisor.

KEN JERN Guide for 28 years. Mountaineering and rock ascents in Cascades, Yosemite, and Wind Rivers. Canadian ice climbs. Expeditions to Mt. McKinley and Peruvian Andes. Ski instructor. Proprietor of Wildflower Inn Bed & Breakfast, Jackson Hole.
HANS JOHNSTONE Guide for 9 years. Climbs in Tetons, Wind Rivers, Yosemite. First winter ascent Mount Moran South Buttress. Mt. McKinley's Cassin Ridge. Kun Lun expedition, Tibet. Expedition to South Buttress of the Ogre (Biantha Braak) in Pakistan. Guide on Mt. McKinley. Member 1988 Nordic Combined Olympic Team. Five years on U.S. National Ski Team. First ski descent Hossack-MacGowan Couloir, Grand Teton North Face. Heliski Guide - Valdez, Alaska. Proprietor of Alpine House Bed & Breakfast, Jackson Hole.

STEPHEN KOCH Guide for 14 years. First ascents in Tetons and on mounts McKinley, Hunter, Guillamet, Carstensz Pyramid, and Kilimanjaro. First free ascent of Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter. First Winter Grand Traverse. First snowboard descents of Grand Teton, Middle Teton, South Teton, Moran, Owen, Teewinot, Kilimanjaro, Vinson Massif, Messner Couloir on McKinley, and others. First descents of Black Ice Couloir on Grand Teton, NE Ridge on Mt. Moran, NE snowfields of Owen, NW couloir on Middle Teton, SE couloir on South Teton, north face of Mount Hood, north face of Buck, west face of Aiguille d'Argentiere, and others. Ascents of Patagonia's Fitz-Roy, Mount Kenya's Diamond Couloir (solo), Matterhorn North Face in winter (solo), and La Dame du Lac. Five-hour ascent of "Beyond Good and Evil," first free ascent of "There Goes The Neighborhood," and others. Expeditions to Shishapangma, Lhotse, Nuptse South Face, Everest North Face. Nominated with Marko Prezelj for the 2001 Piolet d' Or Award for ascent of "Light Traveler" on Mt. McKinley. Founder of Avalanche Awareness Educational Fund. Wyoming State Road Bike Championship Runner Up - 2004.

BILL LIBERATORE Guide for 5 years. Climbs in western U.S. and Canada. First ascents in Rocky Mountain National Park. Expeditions to Peruvian Andes, Khumbu region of Nepal, and northern Canada. Former member of Search and Rescue in Rocky Mountain National Park. AMGA Certified Rock Guide.

RON MATOUS Guide for 22 years. A former Outward Bound Winter Course Director, Ron began making winter ascents while in college on the east coast before moving to Colorado in 1974. He began guiding the Grand regularly in winter in the early ‘80’s, and has made winter ascents of all the major Teton peaks over the years. A ski patrolman and instructor for the American Avalanche Institute, his experience on snow extends to the Alps, Himalayas, Andes, New Zealand, and the Alaska range.

KENT McBRIDE Guide for 8 years. Skiing and climbing in Tetons and western U.S., including four routes on El Capitan. First ski descent CMC Route on Mount Moran. Climbing and skiing in Alaska, Canada, Chile, Argentina, Bolivia, and Patagonia. Three winters skiing and climbing in Chamonix and La Grave, France. Expedition to Kun Lun Range, Tibet. Lead guide, Valdez Heli-Ski Guides, Valdez, Alaska. Director, Jackson Hole Alpine Guides.

FORREST McCARTHY Guide for 13 years. Climbed and guided trips throughout North America including Canadian Rockies and Alaska. Veteran guide on both Denali and Aconcagua. Over 10 scientific and climbing expeditions to Antarctica, including Vinson Massif, Central Plateau, South Pole, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Discovery, Beardmore Glacier, Dry Valleys, and B- 15 (the world's largest iceberg). Extensive climbing in New Zealand, including the Hooker Face on Mount Cook and multiple ascents of Mount Aspiring. Additional climbing excursions include the Australian Outback, volcanoes of Ecuador, and the Annapurna and Khumbu regions of Nepal. Ski descents and traverses in Tetons, Wind Rivers, and throughout the Greater Yellowstone region. Field biologist specializing in alpine ecology and rare carnivores.

SCOTT McGEE Guide for 13 years. Guided in the central and north Cascades of Oregon and Washington, California Sierra, Beartooths of Montana, and Wind River and Teton Ranges. Expedition to Juncal. Member PSIA National Nordic Demonstration Team. Director, Jackson Hole Nordic Center.

RODRIGO MUJICA Guide for 21 years. Guided 24 expeditions to Mt. McKinley and 28 expeditions to Aconcagua. Expeditions to Xixabangma and Cho Oyu in the Himalaya. Climbs in Patagonia include Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Poincenot, Central Tower of Paine, and two ascents of the North Tower of Paine, one of them guided. Explorations of Patagonia Ice Cap, including first east-west traverse of northern Ice Cap. Extensive guiding in Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia. First ascents in Antarctica, Andes, and Alaska. Speed ascents of Mt. McKinley, Aconcagua, Juncal. Guide in Ellsworth Mountains and Mt. Vinson in Antarctica. Extensive climbs and guiding in Alps, including Frendo Spur and Grand Jorasses. Climbs in Yosemite. Heli-ski guide in Chile. UIAGM Certified Guide.

MARK NEWCOMB Guide for 17 years. Climbs in western U.S., Tetons, Nepal, Mt. McKinley's Cassin Ridge, Xixabangma, Hidden Peak, and Kun Lun expeditions. First ski descents of various extreme Teton routes. Ski guide in Alaska, France, and U.S. Guide on Mt. McKinley and Geladaintong, Tibet. Watson Fellow in China. Exploratory climb of Shipton's Arch, Xingjiang, China. Exploratory climbs in northeast China, including Geladaintong, Sepu Kangri, and Charagil. Marmot Mountain Ltd. Design Board. Named by Powder Magazine in 2003 as one of "Six Best Ski Mountaineers." Co-guide on first guided ski descent of Grand Teton 2004.

ROD NEWCOMB Guide for 42 years. First ascent East Buttress of Mt. McKinley and ski ascent of Mount Silverthrone in Alaska. Ascents in Nepal Himalaya. Avalanche researcher and consultant. Founder and Director of American Avalanche Institute. Recipient in 2004 of Honorary Membership by the American Avalanche Association, the highest honor given to avalanche researchers and practitioners.

BRENDAN O'NEILL Guide for 5 years. Ascents of big walls in Zion and Yosemite, including El Capitan in one day. Climbs in the Alps and U.S., including new routes in the Teton Range. Redpoint ascent of 5.13. Ski descents in U.S., Alps, Peru, and Bolivia, including Huascarán Sur, and first descents of Palomani Grande (18,927 feet) and Illampu (20,892 feet). Many first ski descents in Teton Range and descents in Sierra Nevada. Two-time North American ski-mountaineering champion. Multiple randonee race winner and 2003 Life-Link/Dynafit Randonee Rally series winner. U.S. representaive in two Ski-alpinism World Championships and World Cup circuit. Winner of first annual Lifelink/Dynafit Randonee Rally, Jackson Hole.

NAT PATRIDGE Guide for 7 years. Climbs in U.S. Steep ski descents in Tetons and Alps. Expeditions to Kenya, Tanzania, Peru, and Ecuador. Guide for Valdez Heli-Ski, Alaska and High Mountains Heli-Skiing, Jackson Hole.

BRIAN PRAX Guide for 7 years. Alpine rock, ice, and big wall climbs in U.S. and Canada. Expeditions to Mt. McKinley including Cassin Ridge and solo ascent of upper West Rib. Solo ascent of Direct Northwest Face of Cho Oyu in Tibet.

KEVIN PUSEY Guide for 14 years. Alpine and sport routes throughout North America. First ascents in Patagonia, including 75-day Northern Ice Cap expedition. Ascents of mounts Cook and Aspiring in New Zealand. Many ascents and treks in Alaska's Chugach Range, Little Switzerland, The Ramparts, and Mount Hayes region. Ascent of Canadian Route on McKinley's Wickersham Wall. Heliski guide, Alaska. Ski descents in Canada, Alaska, and the Rockies. NOLS mountaineering instructor. Antarctic Research Expedition Safety Officer -1999. Mountaineering Specialist with Jackson Hole Ski Patrol. Backcountry Gourmet Chef.

DAVE RYAN Guide for 11 years. Extensive climbs in western U.S., including 10 big walls in Yosemite and Zion. Twenty-six first ascents in Yosemite, central Sierras, and Cuba's Viñales valley. High altitude expeditions to Aconcagua and Mt. McKinley. Extended ski tours in Alps, Cascades, British Columbia, Sierras, and Tetons. Telemark ski descents of seven Cascade volcanoes including Rainier, Hood, Adams, and Shasta.

CHRISTIAN SANTELICES Guide for 16 years. Climbs in the Alps, Pyrenees, and Mexico. Guide on El Capitan and Half Dome. Expeditions in Patagonia, including the Ice Cap, Cerro Torre, Fortaleza, Central Tower of Paine. First ascents on Cerro Escudo and Torre Central. Ski and snowboarding in Alaska and Morocco. Guided climbs in ther Drakensberg of South Africa. Climbed 20 of Steck and Roper's 50 Classic Climbs of North America in 20 days. Nike ACG footwear and apparel design advisory board. Professional Nike ACG athlete. AMGA Certified Rock Guide.

TOM SCIOLINO Guide for 24 years. Eleven ascents Yosemite's El Capitan. Ascents of north faces of Europe's Eiger, Dru, Grand Jorasses, Triolet Direct, and Mt. Blanc. Guide on Alpamayo and Huascarán, Peru. Fifteen ascents of Diamond on Longs Peak and many ascents in Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado. Ascents in Canada, Canyonlands, and Nepal.

DAN STARR Guide for 4 years. Rock, ice, and alpine climbs in Gallatin Range, Absaroka Range, North Cascades, Sierra Nevada, Yosemite, Zion, Canyonlands, and Colorado's South Platte. Ski descents of Mt. Hood and in the Tetons, including Grand Teton, Middle Teton, and Mt. Moran. Ski descents in Colorado, Chugach Range, and Selkirk Range. Trekking and climbing expedition to Mt. Kenya and Kilimanjaro. Ascent of Ama Dablam - 2004. Assistant Director of the Snow King Professional Ski Patrol.

JACK TACKLE Guide for 28 years. First ascent of Mt. McKinley's Isis face, Mt. Hunter's Diamond Arete, Foraker's Viper Ridge, Mt. Barille's Cobra Pillar. Canadian Coast Range ascents. Mt. Siguniang, China. Mt. Everest West Expedition. Expeditions to Biafo Spires, Uzam Braak, and Biantha Braak (Ogre), in Pakistan. Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash in Peru. First ascent Elevator Shaft, Mt. Johnson, Alaska. North Face Mt. Kennedy, Yukon. Guide on Mt. McKinley. Sales representative for Vasque Footware and Black Diamond. Former Technical consultant for Vasque Footware. Former Director, American Alpine Club. Recipient of the American Alpine Club's coveted Underhill Award for climbing achievement - 1999 and Trento Film Festival and Italian Alpine Club award, "Genziana Giovanne"-1999. Recipient of AAC's Sowles Award - 2003. AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.

THOMAS TURIANO Guide for 17 years. Climbing throughout North America. Teton first ascents. Major ski descents of Teton peaks. Ascents of over 400 different mountains in Greater Yellowstone region. Backcountry ski guide and instructor. Exum web site author. Author of Teton Skiing: A History and Guide and Select Peaks of Greater Yellowstone: A Mountaineering History and Guide.

JIM WILLIAMS Guide for 37 years. First ascent Rudshe Konka, China - 1982. Expeditions to Chile, Peru, Africa, Bhutan, China, India, Nepal, and Tibet. Explorations in Shagskam region, Xinjiang, China, K2, northern Karakorum. Co-leader 1989 Ski Expedition to South Pole. Co-leader Patagonian Ice Cap Traverse, 1991. Guide on Mt. Everest, Nupste, Lhotse, Mt. McKinley, Ama Dablam, Carstenz Pyramid, Elbrus, and Aconcagua. Reached summit of Mt. Everest in 2000 with clients. First person to have successfully guided all "Seven Summits" in less than one year. Recipient of National Park Service Search and Rescue Award - 2003. AMGA Certified Alpine and Rock Guide.